A Body Suspension Set up
Thank you. Does the average set up sit level? The dart is slightly nose down, or is that insignificant.
It matters. You need double adjustable shocks. And an adjustable clutch, or get ahold of
@weedburner and get a Clutch Tamer from him.
Then you work in your clutch and shock tuning.
If you car is under 2600 pounds you are marginal on starting line ratio. And that’s being as kind as I can be. Oh the hell with it. Your SLR sucks buttermilk through a straw.
You have a 9.6577 overall first gear. That’s your starting line ratio. That has to go up unless your car is very light. You are at least 3 points low.
Even with a 3.09 first gear box, you’d be barely over 12:1. These are not automatics. Do not listen to guys who haven’t raced a stick car since Methuselah roamed the earth.
Clutch and shock technology is so much better today than it was even 20 years ago it’s not funny.
Also, if you don’t have a 2 step working off the clutch pedal, get one. I didn’t use one before but when the car goes back it I’ll hook up the 2 step.
Between the clutch, 2 step and the shocks you have a ton of tuning options. One change at a time.
You want to hit the tire as hard as the tire will allow. One of these days I may post a video I took of a car at the track.
He has his Caltrac bars way too high. He had a steel flywheel and it didn’t need all that FW weight.
And it smashed the tire so hard the bead is the only thing keeping the wheel off the track.
I’m a little gun shy to post it. I never asked him if I could publish it. I don’t want to embarrass him because that’s not what it’s about.
But I could teach a clinic on why his car was beating the tire to death.
The application of the clutch is critical. If you have no way to control the application of the clutch you’ll never go faster.
A pickoff your time slip would be worth looking at.