If you are doing a street/strip deal and if you can build a transmission (no one really knows what each of our members skill sets but from the way you talk you are far far more than talented enough to…) slick shift a gear box.
For street/strip stuff I just slick shift the transmission. It’s cheap, easy and it works. The difference is for the street side of the transmission I also grind every other clutching tooth off the gear, I do the same for the syncros. Ever other tooth is taken off the slider too.
Then the box is assembled just like a stock transmission with the struts and springs. The damn thing will almost shift itself.
If you have a very heavy clutch disc or you are shifting at 6500 or higher or both, or if you are running a 3.09 box then you can grind every TWO teeth off of second gear and the second gear synchro.
The math of it is there are 36 clutching teeth on the gears and syncros. If you slick shift it, you remove every other tooth. There is 18 teeth less. That’s 50% of the teeth gone and you have 18 teeth left.
If you take off TWO teeth and leave ONE, that’s called Pro Shifting. That leave 12 teeth. You now have removed 66% of the teeth. And you assemble the transmission exactly like a stocker with the syncros, struts and springs.
I’m doing the Pro Shift on second gears because of the rpm and clutches I use, especially with the huge gear split between first and second gear. That big rpm drops can make the transmission a bugger to shift
All it takes is a grinder and some 1/2 diameter ALUMINUM OXIDE grinding stones. The AO stones cut those hard assed gears pretty quickly. I haven’t found a better stone for grinding those gears. They cut them like butter. A sharp carbide will cut the syncros like butter.
That’s way cheaper than face plating, especially if you can do the grinding.
FWIW I don’t take any teeth off first gear or the syncro because…well there’s no need to. I even leave the syncro in there with all its teeth. And that saves grinding. And grinding sucks but it works.
Now I forgot what the point of all this was. Oh yeah, face plating.
If you do the gear box like I’ve outlined, the transmission will up and down shift like a stocker. It will also stay in gear like a stocker. A slick or pro shifted box WILL pop out of gear when you let off the throttle. Even just a skosh of throttle reduction.
If you do the syncro’s too and put them together as above, it will stay in gear when you let off the throttle. That makes then drive very nice on the street.
Dammit, I forgot to mention if you do leave all the teeth on first (I always leave them on now) you only grind the teeth off the slider just under half way across the slider. Leave all the teeth on the first gear side of the slider. If you look at the slider you’ll see a little dip or dimple half way across.
You want to leave the dimple there on the second gear side. It makes neutral feel a little bit tighter.
That transmission will shift as high as you feel like turning it.
If you miss a shift and ***** up a gear or just hurt one, you can send the gear back to Liberty Gears and the can grind all teeth off and they weld on a ring. You can still use the 1-2 slider if you ***** second gear. If you kill third and/or fourth you can’t reuse the slider if you did the slick shift on them. The tooth count will be wrong.
If for some reason you decide to pro shift third and forth then you can reuse that slider if you hurt a gear and need Liberty to add shift rings to them. I think that’s what Liberty calls them.
If you face plate them after hurting a gear I think you can reuse the sliders but you’d need to call Liberty and see what they say.
Anyway this is way too long but you may not need to do any of this. It’s just good to know you can easily make one of the boxes shift at any rpm you can stand by the simple process of slick or pro shifting.