A Body Suspension Set up
Thanks for the explanation. I have built a few 833s and understand your description. My comprehension of the 1/2 slider is remove the teeth 1/2 way past the midway of the slider towards the 1st hear side. I like to "entertain" the neighbors on occasion... so the slider is a better option.
As far as shifting RPM it's been my experience that the cam grinders r4ecomend way to short of .050 duration for the 360 La.
Currently I have several assembled and they are slowly gaining power near 6000. I have no abjection shifting above that RPM, as my 340 liked 6700 shifts street racing in the 90's.
For some reason the 360 doesn't "pull" above 5800 as I shifted at 6200 on my last outing and slowed down.
I have a 251/251 .570 on a 105 that's begging to have a go as well as a 248/256 .560 in an EQ headed combo that is going out soon.
Any recommendations on oiling modifications for 6500+ on these cast crank pigs?
Thank you Sir.
I have some general guidelines I follow. These engines were not designed to run the RPM we run them.
I used to shift my stuff at 8500, but in my advanced age (60 going on 104) I just wouldn’t do that again on ANY block that has OEM Chrysler oiling.
I can make it work, but it’s an effort. If you have an R3 or Ritter block with corrected oiling it’s much easier to shift that high.
I know with a block with correct oiling I would build something in the 365-370 inches and shift it at 9k. I’m too old to service a car like that any more.
It’s a lot of work running a car (with a clutch and using the clutch to shift it) like that and I’m not enamored with jerking the rocker boxes off every pass and running the valves and checking valve springs.
Back to oiling, I’m not a fan of running loose clearances, heavy oil and not correcting all the internal leaks these things have.
The most horrible leaks are at the lifters. If you’ve ever pulled the intake and pan and primed one of these things I think would stagger most people.
That’s ALL oil that doesn’t go to the main and rod bearings.
To that end, I never build an engine with a stock depth pan that’s going over 6500. If for no other reason than an engine that makes more power makes more heat. Oil is CRITICAL for cooling. More oil helps keep the oil a bit cooler.
For me, a deep is a must for 6500 and up. Do guys use stock pans and go higher than 6500? Yup. Have I seen the results? Yup.
Over 7500 I try and find an old Milodon Super Stock pan. The pans show up now and then but most times they don’t have the pick up. You can get a pickup made for those pans but they are not as good as the static and swinging pickups Milodon made.
In my testing, that pan made more power than most and was only SLIGHTLY behind in making power. I think on one of my low 600 hp engines my box pan with a full length kick out was only better above 8k and it was only 10 up at 8800.
That’s a testament to how good those pans are. BUT, the box pan was absolute GARBAGE when it came to oil control.
On the dyno it kicked *** at higher rpm. In the car it would randomly grab a bearing or some weird ****.
The internal baffling was engineered by the same dude who designed playdo. I’m not saying the manufacturer because I’ve bashed them publicly and on the phone many times.
As a brief explanation of the issues is the baffling looked right but at the end of a burnout where the rpm is pretty high for low engine load oil would run away from the pickup and it would snag a bearing.
Then you’d make the pass with a hurt bearing and if I wasn’t 100% that day, out came a rod.
What was even worse was making a pass and slowing down the oil would all run to the front of the pan, it would ***** up a bearing and then on the next burnout it would **** it’s pants in the burnout.
That was 100% pan baffling. I made it work but it was really garbage.
Rear sump pans are ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS better than mid or front sump pans. Chrysler and Ford missed not only the boat on that but they weren’t even in the right ocean.
Once you get over about 7800 then all rules are off.
Under that you use a deep pan, rear sump preferred, fix the lifter leaks, use full grooved main bearings and a HV/HP pump.
If you are not running pushrod oiling then block all oil to the lifters. Skip the crossover, it doesn’t do jack **** other than get oil from the passenger side oil gallery to the drivers side.
It doesn’t slow down the oil or any other silly nonsense. The crossover is to get oil to the drivers side lifters and that’s IT. Don’t fall for bullshit and trickeration.
I do open up the oil passages from the pump to the main cap and put to the filter. After that I leave all that alone.
I do not ever polish or paint anything. I’ve done it. Polishing the internal surfaces of a block to a sheen is a time consuming, dirty dumb task that does nothing.
I don’t ever paint blocks not because it comes off if done incorrectly but because it doesn’t do anything except burn up money and time. I let the magazine guys do that, but I know some very skilled, talented and smarter guys who do it and swear by it. My testing showed otherwise.
I will grind off some casting flash IF it’s particularly nasty looking. Other that that I holster the grinder.
To lay it out, for under about 7200 I use a deep pan, block off oil to the lifters, full groove mains, HV/HP pump and your good.
You can get by without blocking oil to the lifters but I don’t like not doing it.
Much more rpm and it gets more complicated than this stuff.