Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???
I ran a large brass radiator out of a late 50's pickup truck in my 75 Nova dirt track car for 3 seasons (until it got destroyed) and I never had any overheating problems. I would see cars with aluminum radiators dropping out of races or destroying engines from overheating. It held "a lot" of water.
How is that the radiators fault?
The OEM’s have all gone to aluminum. Are they wrong too?
You run the biggest radiator you can fit.
You use the best high flow water pump you can find.
You use a Stewart Components high flow thermostat.
You speed up the water pump until you the belts fly off or you see cavitation. And IMO if it you do see cavitation I’d be looking at the pump first and not the speed of it.
No clutch fans.
Then pick a thermostat opening you want. That will set your minimum operating temperature. If it won’t stay within 10 degrees of it’s temperature you need to keep working on it.
And BTW, most of the CT guys I know still think UNDERdriving the water pump to save 4 horsepower while giving up 20 plus horsepower because they can’t keep the engine cool.
And telling them that won’t work. So I just change the pulleys and tell them drive it or take my engine out.
The funny thing is a retarded third grader can walk up and look at the pulleys and see if it’s under or overdriven.