Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???
It does. That’s a PROVEN FACT.
This is a massive oversimplification, just like saying the opposite is.
It’s not, at least certainly not in all cases. The material for brass/copper does have a better thermal conductivity coefficient. It depends entirely on the particular construction of the radiator in question. For some applications aluminum will perform better, for others brass/copper will. It will literally some down to the construction of the individual radiators you’re comparing.
How is that the radiators fault?
The OEM’s have all gone to aluminum. Are they wrong too?
You run the biggest radiator you can fit.
You use the best high flow water pump you can find.
You use a Stewart Components high flow thermostat.
You speed up the water pump until you the belts fly off or you see cavitation. And IMO if it you do see cavitation I’d be looking at the pump first and not the speed of it.
No clutch fans.
Then pick a thermostat opening you want. That will set your minimum operating temperature. If it won’t stay within 10 degrees of it’s temperature you need to keep working on it.
And BTW, most of the CT guys I know still think UNDERdriving the water pump to save 4 horsepower while giving up 20 plus horsepower because they can’t keep the engine cool.
And telling them that won’t work. So I just change the pulleys and tell them drive it or take my engine out.
The funny thing is a retarded third grader can walk up and look at the pulleys and see if it’s under or overdriven.
You’re making a ton of assumptions here. Just because the OEM’s have all gone aluminum/plastic doesn’t mean that’s the best for a particular application.
Aluminum is cheaper, which is a factor. Aluminum/plastic is a lot cheaper. It’s also lighter, so for overall mass reduction you can be looking at better fuel efficiency which is a benchmark that the OEM’s have to hit. Aluminum radiators can typically also withstand higher pressures because of their construction, which is also very helpful because it raises the boiling temperature on newer cars that work better when run hotter because of other requirements.
As for the rest of it, the best cooling system is one that has components that are matched to work together. Just slapping on a higher output pump isn’t always the answer. Running the pump at the speed it was designed is best, so underdriving or overdriving it can both result in issues. And whether or not a particular engine’s water pump is under or overdriven doesn’t tell you much, sure, you can look at the pulley size and see if it is. But just on our cars Ma Mopar ran both under and overdriven pulleys on literally the same model of engine depending on whether or not the car had AC. And further, used two different pumps, one that was under driven and one that was overdriven. So unless you already know that was stock seeing a pump that’s over or under driven doesn’t tell you anything.
If you’re running a mechanical fan, having some kind of clutch fan is a GOOD thing. Working properly it should only reduce the speed of the fan when the car is moving, and they airflow from the speed of the car is doing the work so the fan doesn’t need to be. A direct drive mechanical fan is just wasting power when the car is doing anything much better than 25 mph. Which is one reason that electric fans are a great improvement in efficiency, because you only run them when you need to. If you need the fan running 100% when doing highway speeds, you have another issue.