Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???
I agree, in our application if a car isn’t cooling it’s not because the radiator is aluminum
Actually it is again a wild oversimplification. Because if we’re talking about a 4 core brass/copper radiator and a large tube 2 core aluminum radiator it is NOT a slam dunk that the aluminum radiator will cool better. It simply is NOT a fact. You’d have to test those individual radiators, and the result would depend on the individual construction. It could easily go either way.
Saying otherwise is simply a wild *** guess.
Nope. Another simplistic over generalization.
Yes, the thermostat only sets the minimum temperature.
In general your cooling system should be able to maintain a temperature within the operating range of the engine. The thermostat has no effect on that, it’s out of the loop the moment it fully opens. So if your car maintains 180, or 190, or 200 once the thermostat is open that has nothing to do with the thermostat and everything to do with your engine, it’s tune, and your cooling systems capabilities. If you run a 160° thermostat and your car will maintain 190° regardless of the situation it doesn’t indicate an issue with the cooling system at all.
This is silly. Why are you worried about the “restriction” from the thermostat if your cooling system works well?
As for the amount of over or under drive it totally depends on the pump itself and the rest of the system. AC Mopars were overdriven at 30-40%.
As far and maintaining within 10°, sure, that indicates a robust cooling system, but that’s not a standard that indicates anything less is junk. If your car maintains 180° all day with a 160° thermostat you’ve got no issues at all.
Nope, not true. Pump speed is very important, and has to be matched. Again, Ma Mopar changed the speed of the pump by over 30% depending on the engine and options. It’s not the only thing, but it’s a thing. There are several threads here where members solved their overheating issues just by changing their pump drive ratio. Mostly after realizing they were unintentionally under driving their water pump.
Again, follow what I say and your cooling system will work.
I could get into why aluminum works better but nothing will convince you no one IN THESE CARS needs a heavy assed radiator.
If you read EXACTly what I wrote you would have noticed you said exactly what I said about thermostats.
The thermostat controls the MINIMUM OPERATING TEMPERATURE IF TGE ENGINE.
That’s not a ******* guess or an assumption. It’s a fact. You even agree with it and then tell me I’m guessing. That tell me you don’t read what I write.
So if engine temps are higher than the rated temperature of the thermostat the cooling system is at fault.
Whether it’s the radiator or a fucked up clutch fan or some whiz bang in gym shorts decided to slow the pump down, it’s the cooling system that’s wrong.
So again, whether you like it or not if anyone is getting ready to make enough power that you need to upgrade your cooling system follow these simple rules.
Biggest two core radiator you can fit. Even if the core opening isn’t as big as it could be. Get as big as fits.
A high flow water pump is a must. Arguing against that is just stupid.
Get a quality high flow thermostat.
A mechanical fan if it will fit. Most of the time an electric fan won’t pull enough air at low speeds to cool the engine. The good ones will but the power savings if they won’t do it costs more power because the temp can’t be controlled.
Cooling is about flow. Air and coolant flow.
Chrysler used up to 20% overdriven.
So get the pump and fan turning faster than the crank.
No guessing there. But once, cry once.