Stroker's 68 Barracuda
Working on the wiring harness right now. Im replacing everything. So the rear harness is almost done.
Eberything is Tefzel, DR-25, Raychem SCL, DT connectors, HDP connectors, and soldered "flying" leads with potted bases that I'll be 3D printing.
Power will be distributed through a Leash Electronics Pro Street relay and fuse board.
Is it complete overkill for a cruiser/daily driver? Yes, absolutely. But at the shop we make every harness this way. Here are some pics of the process. It's not 100% finished, I'm waiting on a few terminals. And right now it's only the rear section of the car, think driver's kick panel to right taillight.
There's a lot going on in this pic. Ignore pretty much everything. First things first, I make an excel file of every circuit on the car. I use this to concoct a full build sheet of every wire and component I need. Second, using Proficad, I make wiring diagrams. Third thing I do is layout the entire system in the car using nylon rope of various diameters and paracord. You can really mimic the bend radius of the bundled wiring this way. Lengths are noted and added to the excel file.
Next, all the wire is cut to length and stored in labeled zip lock bags.
Then all the required wires in this branch are laid out on the bench and bundled using Kapton tape. I did not concentric twist this harness. For a daily driver that is way overkill and completely unnecessary.
Next I like to lay it in the car, unsheathed, to make sure it's fitting well.
Then its sheathed in Raychem DR-25. It's heat shrink tubing that recovers 2:1 and stays pliable afterwards. Each branch gets a slip of Raychem SCL right at the branch point. This shrinks 3:1, has potting compound inside that melts and seals the joint, and acts as a great strain relief.
Continued in the next post, but here you can see a DT connector at the new taillight subharness. It's also in DR-25 and SCL.
Working on the wiring harness right now. Im replacing everything. So the rear harness is almost done.
Eberything is Tefzel, DR-25, Raychem SCL, DT connectors, HDP connectors, and soldered "flying" leads with potted bases that I'll be 3D printing.
Power will be distributed through a Leash Electronics Pro Street relay and fuse board.
Is it complete overkill for a cruiser/daily driver? Yes, absolutely. But at the shop we make every harness this way. Here are some pics of the process. It's not 100% finished, I'm waiting on a few terminals. And right now it's only the rear section of the car, think driver's kick panel to right taillight.
There's a lot going on in this pic. Ignore pretty much everything. First things first, I make an excel file of every circuit on the car. I use this to concoct a full build sheet of every wire and component I need. Second, using Proficad, I make wiring diagrams. Third thing I do is layout the entire system in the car using nylon rope of various diameters and paracord. You can really mimic the bend radius of the bundled wiring this way. Lengths are noted and added to the excel file.
Next, all the wire is cut to length and stored in labeled zip lock bags.
Then all the required wires in this branch are laid out on the bench and bundled using Kapton tape. I did not concentric twist this harness. For a daily driver that is way overkill and completely unnecessary.
Next I like to lay it in the car, unsheathed, to make sure it's fitting well.
Then its sheathed in Raychem DR-25. It's heat shrink tubing that recovers 2:1 and stays pliable afterwards. Each branch gets a slip of Raychem SCL right at the branch point. This shrinks 3:1, has potting compound inside that melts and seals the joint, and acts as a great strain relief.
Continued in the next post, but here you can see a DT connector at the new taillight subharness. It's also in DR-25 and SCL.