'69 Dart Custom - Not Sparking

OK, the strange device on the coil negative is a radio noise suppression capacitor/ condenser. It belongs on the coil POS connection

You want to determine a couple of things.

1...The run voltage you checked goes through the ballast resistor to the coil. Now, that is ONLY hot with the key in "run." THAT goes COLD when you twist the key to "start."

2...SO HOW does the coil get power in "start?" There is a second contact on the ignition switch, called IGN2. That is hot in the "start" position, just like the "s" "start" terminal. THAT IGN2 --brown wire--is fed out through the bulkhead to the coil side of the ballast. So with the key twisted to "start" the coil should get full battery voltage.

3...Distributor, points, and condenser: It is important to determine if the points are opening and closing, and more important, are actually electrically making and breaking the circuit. One way to do that is to put a lamp/ meter on the coil NEG and turn the key to run. Bump the engine over by using a screwdriver to short across the two large bare terminals of the start relay. The meter/ lamp should go from battery voltage -when the points are open- to very low, no more than maybe 1V when the points close, as the engine is bumped around.

If that is happening, "rig" a test gap like a spark checker or opened up spark plug on the coil tower to ground. You should see good hot spark there

IF you have power for certain, IF the points are acting as I described and yet you still do not have spark, the trouble is most likely either the condenser or the coil

UNLIKE nonsense around the web, you CAN NOT really test a cap with an ohmeter. You really need a device which will test high voltage leakage. Buy another condenser and hope for the best. They are cheaper than a coil, and of course if that is not the trouble, then the coil is the thing.