Is 1/2" leaf spring relocation worth the trouble?
Nice slider brackets! Not sure I’ve seen pictures of yours before, much prettier than the ghetto version I made up out of rectangular tubing I had on hand. But they still work!
When I was running 295/35/18’s on 18x10’s i didn’t have any issues with those rubbing, although in addition to the 1/2” offset and sliders I took about a 1/2” out of the quarter lip.
When I added rear disks and went to 295/40/18’s the added track width from the disks and the height of the 40 series was causing a little rub on hard cornering or full compression because of the “bump” in the stock outer wheelhouse. 18x10.5’s and 285’s should be fine though.
Tubular UCA’s, as long as they’re the “V” shape instead of some that are a “U” shape, solve the issue of rim to wheel interference at full suspension extension and steering lock.
My 18x9’s just touched the stock UCA’s at full steering lock and suspension extension, but that’s also backspace and steering stop dependent. And with the steering stop being cast into the lower ball joint that actually varies quite a bit, I’ve seen those steering stops be a over a 1/4” different in height and that makes a big difference in steering angle.
Tom (member Tomswheels) had 18x10’s on the front of his Valiant, I’m fairly certain they’d work on my Duster.
Also the RPF1’s I had machined, I probably could have had the hub machined to match them instead of the wheels. But I decided to modify the hub bore on the wheels rather than the hubs. Not saying one is better than the other, just what I decided to do at the time.
Nice slider brackets! Not sure I’ve seen pictures of yours before, much prettier than the ghetto version I made up out of rectangular tubing I had on hand. But they still work!
When I was running 295/35/18’s on 18x10’s i didn’t have any issues with those rubbing, although in addition to the 1/2” offset and sliders I took about a 1/2” out of the quarter lip.
When I added rear disks and went to 295/40/18’s the added track width from the disks and the height of the 40 series was causing a little rub on hard cornering or full compression because of the “bump” in the stock outer wheelhouse. 18x10.5’s and 285’s should be fine though.
Tubular UCA’s, as long as they’re the “V” shape instead of some that are a “U” shape, solve the issue of rim to wheel interference at full suspension extension and steering lock.
My 18x9’s just touched the stock UCA’s at full steering lock and suspension extension, but that’s also backspace and steering stop dependent. And with the steering stop being cast into the lower ball joint that actually varies quite a bit, I’ve seen those steering stops be a over a 1/4” different in height and that makes a big difference in steering angle.
Tom (member Tomswheels) had 18x10’s on the front of his Valiant, I’m fairly certain they’d work on my Duster.
Also the RPF1’s I had machined, I probably could have had the hub machined to match them instead of the wheels. But I decided to modify the hub bore on the wheels rather than the hubs. Not saying one is better than the other, just what I decided to do at the time.