Ball joint drop brackets?

-I haven't mapped a B-body out, but A and E bodies both have negative camber gain if they're dropped between 1" and 2" with the stock spindles. So saying you've got positive camber gain without his brackets isn't true at all

-Typically, you want to LOWER the roll center to improve handling. It's true, putting the CG and roll center closer together will improve roll couple. But in general raising the roll center isn't what you want to do, unless you have some very specific geometry conditions

-Lowering the car so the LCA is parallel to the ground is about as low as you can practically run a car with long tube headers on the street if you're doing any amount of real street driving. That's nearly a 2" drop from stock. So, unless you're race only and dragging on the ground, your LCA's will not angle up from the pivot point.

- His header flange was kissing the ground and he was just bouncing on it. He said 1" clearance, not a chance. You can see the header hit the ground around 7:40, you can literally see the header move as a result. You've gotta pay attention when adding travel, if you have more travel than clearance you're going to be unhappy when the hard parts intersect and you lose control

-Mapping out your suspension is a good way to determine your geometry. But if your measurements aren't within 1/16", you're basically just jerking off. No guessing where the center of the ball is, and if you're drawing it all out you have to be VERY accurate.

-Anti-dive effects camber gain. That is why Hotchkis altered the anti-dive to improve camber gain on their B/E body UCA's. If you average the heights of the control arm pivots like he suggests, you're not getting the real numbers. Also, A-body suspension has less anti-dive built in, just FYI.

-Adding travel is good, but, you have to be able to use it. If you lower the car enough that your LCA's are no longer parallel to the ground, and then add 1.5" of travel, your wheels will hit the inner fender long before you run out of compression. I have this issue just with tubular LCA's that add less than 1" of travel before the bump stop. Both my Challenger and my Duster are to the point that they will just kiss the wheel to the inner fender at full suspension compression. If I added another 1.5" of available travel, it would mean raising the inner fender to keep the wheel from locking up on the bodywork before the suspension bottomed out

-His CG is a wild *** guess, and for his calculations to mean anything at all it has to be pretty accurate. He should weigh the roof structure of one of these cars and then ask himself why he puts the CG of the car above the level of most of the engine, the entire transmission, rear axle, all the suspension, all the interior, and 80% of the bodywork.

-Dropping the lower ball joint will introduce outer tie rod end clearance issues on an A-body. On a B/E body you don't need large positive offsets/lots of backspace to run wide tires up front, so on a B/E it's not an issue. On an A, those brackets will probably cost you at least a 1/4" of backspace with 18" wheels which means you're losing the possibility of 275's on the front.

-Off topic, but at one point he says a rear locker will help you in the corners. Yeah, that's not at all true. A limited slip diff will, but even then you don't want it super tight for paved courses because if it locks up or lets go hard you're swapping ends. That's why the road course and pro-touring guys use worm gear LSD's now, they're smooth. He's thinking dirt track, or maybe he's just used to always sliding the rear end. Which is not the fastest way to drive, even if power sliding everywhere is fun.

-Those brackets are less than half the thickness of the spindles where the ball joints mount. There's a significant loss of strength with those. Maybe it's not actually an issue because the stock stuff is wildly overbuilt, but, I'd be willing to bet he hasn't done the engineering to know if those will hold up long term on the street.

-He NEVER gives his actual numbers. None of them. He says it "cuts bump steer in half" but provides ZERO evidence to back that up. If this is like his camber gain claim, it could be 100% bullshit. Every geometry claim he makes is 100% unsupported. He tosses out lots of technical jargon, appeals to his racing background, and backs up exactly nothing with actual numbers