273/ 2 barrel camshaft options

coast2coastkidd85 said
Hey there, after some further digging, I see that you crossed this bridge back in 2016 so I hope I haven’t worn you and the community out with a rinse and repeat of the topic.

Would you be willing to educate me further on the process of installing the isky cam?

Have the machine shop install the cam bearings and the isky E-4 cam.

(No machine work of any kind is being done at this time, just thorough cleaning and reassembling)

Reface and use my existing lifters.

Any other parts that need to be replaced and or adjusted in doing this install?

This setup won’t hurt and or “over cam” the remaining components in the engine?
As of right now, EVERYTHING is going right back in where it was after cleaning. The only parts being replaced will be bearings and gaskets as far as block related items, as of now.

Again this will be a basic daily driver on weekends and the occasional cruise.

I appreciate your patience! Thank you!

Is the machine shop equipped to put the proper convex surface on the lifters? With the problems people have had with lifters and cam failure the last 20 years you want good component match. IMHO the best bet if ordering the Isky E4 is to get the matching lifters from them. You do not want to take a chance of wiping the cam and having to take the engine apart again.
Another little tip from Brian Salter Racing Engines and David Vizard, is to round off the bottom edges of the cylinder bores a bit. It is kind of like the rounded or flared horns or velocity stacks on the intake. Consider this, as the piston travels up the bore at 2,000RPM, the air and oil mist follows the piston up. A square edge creates a flow restriction which reduces HP and fuel economy, efficiency. It is not much, but everything helps. This needs to be done before the short block is assembled, as you know and should you decide to do it.