Front End Rebuild - my first rodeo

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roadrunnerh

roadrunnerh

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Hello fellow A Body fans! I haven't posted a lot here recently, so I thought I would share my progress on my first front suspension rebuild!

Thanks to @Kern Dog for some great advice, and my trusty factory service manual, along with reading through threads here and FBBO, I am well on my way to getting this car's (1975 Scamp) front end back together. The bolts and nuts and still on the loose side/ not torqued. (My 383 needs to go in too, before the snow flies, but that's another project happening now too).

The torsion bar install was painless! I'm using PST's (Kanter Auto) 1.03" bars, and rubber (I think) boots with stainless clips from Detroit Muscle. With the LCA all the way down, the torsion bars slid in with some guidance. Once they were 90% home, I tapped from the rear with a rubber mallet and a drum stick! One went in slightly deeper, but I'm thinking it's no big deal since the T bars probably "walk" back in use?
The torsion bar boots... Now I am by no means trying to make myself out to be some kind of He-Man, but I didn't think it was very difficult at all. I just used a little grease and it popped over the Hex end. Do some of you use a poly boot which would make it more difficult? Or larger diameter bars?

I had to slightly persuade the opening on the chassis for the upper control arms, but just a couple taps to open it up. This front end was never apart. Most parts have been blasted and powder coated including the K frame, UCA, LCA, caliper bracket, sway bar, etc. The suspension is pretty much stock Moog stuff; yes A LOT is still available, even made in USA, and ya don't have to pay an inflated price for the exact same part from a vendor, IMHO.
I used Energy Suspension poly strut rod bushings after failing to find Moog K7068. I came to find out, they look nothing like factory PN 3950035 + 3905036! Someone actually claimed to have "a couple sets" of the Moog K7068, but that he didn't want to "break up a $1,000 front end kit just for that part". :realcrazy:

I'm obviously not done, but I'm pleased with my progress so far...
Here are some pics - I know pics are required! Please share your feedback and also let me know if anything looks whacky!
Thanks for reading!
Harry
Scamp engine compartment 8424.jpg
Scamp suspension 8424.jpg
 
Look great. Don't forget the LCA bump stop. I am doing the same rebuild on my 73 Duster and it looks the same! Just got my Kanter TB's as well.

One thing: its hard to see but make sure you have the UCA adjuster shims on both ends of the bolts. I cannot tell if you have the nut ends on (you might).

RGAZ
 
Looking pretty good. If you plan to use an aftermarket front sway bar, you may regret having the calipers in the front unless you can find one that fits without interference.
 
Ugh! Frustrated, I needed to walk away! :BangHead:
What am I doing wrong? The UCA is so close I can not install the rubber bump stop. I've tried putting it under load with floor jack, frame rails resting on stands. I'm waiting to figure this out prior to rotors, calipers, brakes.
Any help is always appreciated!
Harry
UCA too low.jpg
 
Why didn’t you put it on when the LCA was off the car?

Try removing the shock to get it lower.

Rgaz
 
I'm referring to the round rubber bump stop that mounts to the frame frail "perch". The one that bolts on the LCA would go on right now, no problem.

Also, why is the Upper ball joint shaft on a 45* angle almost? Help.
 
Oh! The upper bump stop. I replaced mine when I had the a-arm off. I would install it after the car is at ride height (weight on it) with the wheel cranked to reach it.
 
Is there no drive train in the car? That should be plenty of weight to allow the knee assembly to move up high enough to install the bumper.
 
Torsion bars clocked down too far???
 
Put a floor jack under the LCA and jack it up.
 
Back off the T-Bar adjusting bolts . If it still won’t move enough they are most likely clocked wrong .
Remember to wait till your engine is in and car is on the ground at desired ride height before torquing the control arm shafts and upper control arm bolts . Otherwise you will end up with a harsh ride .
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I installed the bumper on perch and UCA is basically resting on it when I jack up the lower control arm.

Looks like I may have clocked the T bars wrong?
It really seemed like another turn on the hex of the t bar (either way during installation) would have seemed radical.

At this point, I need to "step away from the flame".
This project has got my frustration level sky high.
What a PITA.
 
Hang in there - we've all been there before. I've done 3 different cars and each one had it's own challenges. You'll get it.
 
The suspension is at full droop. It's gonna rest on the bump stop.
 
Well guys, I've been back at it.

After thinking about it and doing some research, I discovered that it would be COMPLETELY obvious if the torsion bars were installed incorrectly or clocked wrong. When I installed these, the LCA had to be lowered a hair to get the hex lined up. It would have been impossible to move to the next lower position on the hex. Similarly, in order to clock these incorrectly the other way and move to the next hex side, the LCA would be so high to line up the hex side. I doubt you would be able to install the knuckle and UCA.

Using a floor jack again, thanks @RustyRatRod, I loosened nuts more, adjusted the UCA cam bolts, and the bump stop bolted up. Most importantly, I learned how the suspension behaves as it goes together and how it looks. After all, this is my first complete front end rebuild. I'm still figuring out how the adjustments effect alignment, etc. I'm just getting this close so I can drive it to the shop for alignment.

The only bolts I've torqued are the lower ball joint to knuckle and K frame bolts, I'm waiting on calipers, and I need to torque the nuts and greasing all joints.
I'm wondering which end of the strut rod should I tighten first?
Here are a couple pics!
suspension back on her feet.jpg

new suspension.jpg

Still more work to be done. Thanks for reading!
 
roadrunnerh said:
Well guys, I've been back at it.

After thinking about it and doing some research, I discovered that it would be COMPLETELY obvious if the torsion bars were installed incorrectly or clocked wrong. When I installed these, the LCA had to be lowered a hair to get the hex lined up. It would have been impossible to move to the next lower position on the hex. Similarly, in order to clock these incorrectly the other way and move to the next hex side, the LCA would be so high to line up the hex side. I doubt you would be able to install the knuckle and UCA.

Using a floor jack again, thanks @RustyRatRod, I loosened nuts more, adjusted the UCA cam bolts, and the bump stop bolted up. Most importantly, I learned how the suspension behaves as it goes together and how it looks. After all, this is my first complete front end rebuild. I'm still figuring out how the adjustments effect alignment, etc. I'm just getting this close so I can drive it to the shop for alignment.

The only bolts I've torqued are the lower ball joint to knuckle and K frame bolts, I'm waiting on calipers, and I need to torque the nuts and greasing all joints.
I'm wondering which end of the strut rod should I tighten first?
Here are a couple pics!
View attachment 1716288873
View attachment 1716288874
Still more work to be done. Thanks for reading!
Click to expand...
Tighten the nut at the rear of the lower control arm first. Otherwise the strut will just spin around. You can fully tighten that now. It's not a flex point.
 
Nice and clean! Looks great! I'm assuming (dangerous) that the engine is in it. I think I see it through the grille. I would start with the final torque on the control arms first, then the strut rods. I don't really think it matters, as long as you do the final torque with the weight on the tires.
 
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