5.2/5.9 H.P build guesstimate

Slantsix64 said

Rumble! Here’s what I been looking at
Grind#1357 230/236 @.50 284/290 duration at .515 lift, I’ll probably have to check valve to piston clearance, I’ll probably end up using a thicker head gasket when I swap them back on that would probably help, also I would advance this camshaft 4 degrees.

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Always check piston to valve clearance just to make sure that you didn’t screw up the cam installation. The actual valve lift, while a concern is more of a troublesome thing even with low lifts, because the cam is installed by mistake 2 or 4 degree off by way of a multi slot crank and/or can gear.

The cam used by MP for the 380/360 had a .515 (IIRC) intake lift. So far, the cam you listed looks like a copy of that MP cam. Though not all the information is there. You should be able to find the specs of the MP cam easy enough.

Adding in a thicker head gasket is a looser on torque and HP. It does little if not actually nothing for piston to valve clearance. Retain the stock thickness or less for keeping everything the cam is supposed to offer in power.

Advancing or retarding the can move the power band slightly in favor of one attribute and the detriment of another. I would suggest seeking out Dino results of moving the cam around rather than rely on someone’s opinion and their seat of the pants Dyno. These things (opinions) are often not accurate and only a few people can actually pick up the differences. I would advise to install the cam straight up as it supposed to be to start with and then mess with it later.

I’ve witnessed these Mopar crate engines run mid to low 12s at the track with a few guys dipping into the Levans. Although that time does require a dedicated stripped out vehicle designed only for the strip.