Power Valve Selection

72blu,
News flash for you! Millions of GM cars idled with high compression engines & cams with less than 200* @ 050 duration cams. You obviously have no idea about combustion at idle.
My GTO idled at 26* on the show room floor.. It did that using vac adv connected to manifold vacuum. See the link below from the 1967 manual.
As for 440s & 35* at idle? Been there & done that many times. Latest one idles with 42-44*, cannot remember the exact figure; 20* init + 22* added with man vac adv.

Bud, here is another news flash for you: as far as best idle timing is concerned it makes NO difference whether the carb has a PV...or metering rods.

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And the MVA success stories continue....idle vac increased 2"...

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And a near smooth idle with MVA....

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All this tells me is you don't know how to set ignition timing at idle on a Mopar. The proper procedure to set ignition timing at idle is to set the factory spec with the vacuum advance DISCONNECTED. Then you hook up the vacuum advance.

From pages 8-46 and 8-47 of the '72 Dodge Service Manual

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We're not talking about a GM car, so, really whatever the process is for a GM is completely irrelevant to this discussion. My comments were based on setting ignition timing at idle using the proper procedure from the FSM, not for what the total timing including vacuum advance is. By definition, as you can see above, the ignition timing at idle is set without vacuum advance.

It may work, but its not founded in engineering. I'm not sure of the origin of this one - but it goes back quite a ways. It probably relates to the belief that low number power valve must be for radical cams. Tuner gave his perspective on that a few years - see my post below.

Look, I said it was a guideline, and it is. To say it isn't "founded in engineering" is just being overly dramatic, it's an accepted guideline that still appears in Holley literature regardless of its origin. Is it perfect? Of course not, I didn't say it was. And again, the OP does not have a radical cam.

I also said that I ultimately selected my PV using information from my AFR gauge while slowly adding load going up a large hill at speed on the freeway, exactly as carnut68 described except with the added bonus of have an AFR gauge. I just used the guideline as a starting place, and that is all I recommended. Not everyone has an AFR, datalogging, etc., and the basic guideline got me closer than what the off the shelf setting on mycarb was.

The engine is question is not some crazy outlier with radical settings, applying some basic guidelines and then driving the car to make finer adjustments should improve performance and get the OP closer in the ballpark than he is currently.

Clearly you're all experts, I'm just going to go back to driving my car that happens to be tuned fairly well, apparently by total accident. Have a nice day.