No spark

Just so you know;
>Pick-ups are directional.
They will trigger the ECU spinning in either direction..... but when spinning in reverse the ECU gets confused and triggers the coil at random times and with random power. You can witness this randomness with a timing light, and reving the engine up just a little. The strobe will go nuts.
>4 pin ECUs will accept battery voltage full-time.
>5-pin ECUs require a dual-ballast, one each for the ECU and factory coil, and they are different.
>Non factory coils may or may not require a ballast, and may require a specific ballast, to run optimally..

From Wiki;
"The primary function of a ballast resistor in an ignition system is to regulate the voltage going to the ignition coil. During the start-up phase, the resistor allows a higher voltage to reach the coil for a strong spark."

It says "during the the Start-up phase", but this refers to start up of the ballast. This is NOT referring to starting the engine.
During this ballast start-up phase, the ballast is cold, and passes nearly all the battery voltage. As it warms up, the ballast will progressively reduce the supply voltage, ending somewhere near 3 to 5 volts lower than battery voltage, at the coil

If you run a coil that is designed to run ballasted, without a ballast, it will quickly begin to run hotter than it was designed for. Most coils are oil-filled, and the oil will carry the heat to the metal case, which will radiate it away. This will work for a while, but the coil will not endure this forever.
When the coil gets this hot, there is no predicting what the output looks like.
I have seen coils that leaked their oil away, not mine; but the result is a short life and failure.

Some old Chevy coils from the 60s and 70s;
were internally ballasted, and/or
some were ballasted inside the Run-wire.
These coils, IIRC, were always so marked;
"use with external resistor", or
"not for use with external resistor", or
some such nomenclature.