What's your opinion on the slack in this 318 timing chain?

I measured it (not by degrees). With a straight-edge against the sprockets I can push the middle of the chain 0.318 inches (yes - it was 318 I swear!). That's 5/16 inch (5.1 / 16 to be exact). So it's not the 1/2 inch that's supposed to be the rule of thumb for replacement.

There's a lot of things you can replace "just because you're there" that's cheap and you're reasonably sure you're not taking a step backwards (like thermostat, water pump, this or that bushing or tie rod end). I'm not convinced that a timing set is one of those, not in my case.

What's tight, for a new chain? 1/16 inch? 1/4 inch? 0/16 (barely able to put it on) ? My experience is with timing belts on the LH-era 3.5L so I don't know what to expect here. I only have read that new chains are not necessarily tight.

Since I'm in Kanada and the local prices can be krazy, I end up buying from Rockauto, and in this case I'm seeing timing sets from EnginTech, FVP, Cloyes, Melling, Ultra-power, with prices that range from $26 to $190 (that's CAD). The $190 is a Cloyes race billet undersized by .010 with 9-Keyway crank sprocket. The "heavy duty" Melling or Cloyes (double rollers) are $50.

Probably at some point I'll notice one of those on wholesaler discount and buy it next time I'm getting something from RA, but for now like I said I'm going to leave this chain on.....
Wise decision in my humble opinion. I still believe what you already have is better than the junk that's forced on us. Even names such as moog, BF Goodrich, timkin, etc etc that were once associated with quality are now compromised and produced off shore in the name of profit. If your timing chain had 100,000 miles on it ok yeah change it out but not with minimal slack and 10,000 miles. Again just my thoughts, others may disagree.