360LA Clutch Fan

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Dwayne Fairchild

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Looking to my ABody Friends for a little help,

I’m rebuilding a 1976 360LA engine to put in my 66 Barracuda.
I found an era correct Mopar Viscous 5 blade offset clutch fan that I would like to use on this engine. I’m having a problem finding a replacement clutch where the shaft of the clutch will line up with the water pump pulley bolt holes.
Is this even a possible for this SB engine? Suggestions?
I would appreciate any insight on this issue.
Thanks
Dwayne
 
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Are you SURE what you found is for an LA small block? Most of the clutches have slots. So unless the slots are not spaced equally, it should fit most water pump bolt patterns. I actually don’t think there are different patterns though.
 
^^Agree.
A bigger concern would be which water pump/tc cover you're using- '66s were designed to use the (pre '70) cast iron water pump (driver's side inlet) which is considerably shorter than the '70 and later aluminum water pump (pass. side inlet). I'm not sure you'll be able to find a short enough fan clutch to fit the long-nose aluminum pump in an early A body ('66 and earlier-smaller engine bay than '67 and later), especially if you've got a thicker than normal aftermarket radiator.
The Hayden #2947 fan clutch is about the shortest one I know of (although I've read rumors of an even shallower MB clutch, but can't verify) if you intend to go with the late water pump; and even that may not be enough. The early iron pump should give you sufficient clearance, though.
 
I have the MB clutch unit IIRC. Running it with a 68 pump. 3/4” from the original 340 A/C radiator.
 
I’m running the newer water pump with the passenger inlet. I had the original radiator re-cored to handle the extra horsepower. The old 66 273 had the fan blade attached to the water pump pulley with 2” spacer. The bolt pattern of the clutch is off about 3/8” from the water pump pulley. The water pump from both engines have the same bolt hole patterns. Am I stuck using a non-clutch fan—flex fan? I’m not racing this car.. just a weekend driver..

Appreciate the help..
 
Dwayne Fairchild said:
Looking to my ABody Friends for a little help,

I’m rebuilding a 1976 360LA engine to put in my 66 Barracuda.
I found an era correct Mopar Viscous 5 blade offset clutch fan that I would like to use on this engine. I’m having a problem finding a replacement clutch where the shaft of the clutch will line up with the water pump pulley bolt holes.
Is this even a possible for this SB engine? Suggestions?
I would appreciate any insight on this issue.
Thanks
Dwayne
Click to expand...
Check here.


Store - All Reproduction Parts | Tonys Parts
 
I used the Hayden 2947 on my 69 with the same 360. It works great, but clearance is very tight to get the water pump bolts in. I had to use studs with locktite in the water pump.
 
If you have a "bit of a cam" in that 360, I highly recommend to NOT run a flexfan, on account of, I have not had any good experiences with those. Every time I use one of those, I have cooling issues.
Your results may vary.

If you decide to run one; NEVER rev the engine up while your body is in line with the fan, in such a manner, that a busted-off blade could cut you in half.

And besides all that, I've also never had success with running a straight viscous-only clutch.
I switched to a Thermostatically controlled viscous clutch, on a large diameter, all-steel, 7-blade, fixed-angle fan, many years ago, and have never been sorry.
It may be more than you need, but when it comes to cooling, the cost of a melted engine is not something I want to think about.
And yet more besides all that;
If you are concerned about power-loss;
on the street, in a lightweight-A, with street gears, street tires, and a 360, I doubt you would ever feel a power-loss from a direct drive fan, with 5 fixed-angle blades. Your 360 already has a preponderance of power until the top of Second gear, after 80 mph or so; how often are you gonna go there? On the street, powerloss is not a concern ...... but overheating in traffic, idling along in gear and waiting at stoplights, is a concern.
And that is, just my opinion.
 
IMG_6877.jpeg
 
I don’t remember the specifics, as it had been awhile. I think I bought bolts and cut them off so they stuck out of the water pump about a 1/4 inch on the back and the fan clutch about 1/8 of an inch past the nut. Locktite them into the water pump with red locktite.
 
My set up
Haydn 2749
28x12 radiator
High volume water pump
The required 3/4 inch clearance from fan to rad
Fan bolts locktited, will replace with studs

17244350379508476431632394802444.jpg
 
Dwayne Fairchild said:
View attachment 1716245093
Click to expand...
This here appears to be a therm0statically controlled viscous clutch, which is the type I use, except mine is a FORD, and it bolted right onto my late model Mopar pump. I have no idea what carline this "offset" fan came from. Except that, in the circles I travel, I've never seen it on a Mopar.
However I run a 7-blade fan. This type of clutch, with the right stat performs excellent, holding the temperature of my system within about 2 degrees, at up to 37* ambient temp, about the hottest it gets up here, in Manitoba.
My rad is year 73, off a 318 Dart with A/C, and is installed in the original Slanty core-support of my 68 Barracuda. The only mods are to the patches on the tanks and a few pinched tubes.
To be fair, the trans cooler is not being used.lol

BTW
I am so enamored of my set-up that If I had an Early A, I would do whatever I had to to make it fit, including either;
Moving the engine and trans back, or the rad forward.
I cannot tell you how wonderful my driving experience has become, since I learned to trust the cooling system. This one has stood the test of time, having been installed in year 2004
 
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