Front end rebuild 1972 Duster
Trying to get a ball joint or tie rod end loose without damaging the boot has been a pisser. The method of tapping on each side with opposing hammers sometimes works. I always forget to try a gear puller.
I was at a turning point over the weekend. I had two ways to go: Forge ahead and replace the core plugs in the engine either with the engine in place or by pulling it later OR just finish the front end rebuild and close the book on that.
It made more sense to me to finish the rebuild. I got the torsion bars in and set the ride height.
Now, old fashioned Mopar mechanics will tell us/me that the correct method is to follow the factory service manual where you measure from the suspension to the floor. I don't do it that way. I've never done it that way. Since the 80s, I've raised or lowered maybe 45-50 cars between what I've owned or cars that I've worked on with friends. Remember in the 80s and 90s when a lowered car or truck was a popular thing with young enthusiasts?
I owned a lowered Camaro....
YES, the monochromatic look was popular in the 80s!
Ha ha....Oh the stuff we thought was cool sometimes looks weird a few years later.
Back on point: I take my measurements from the highest point on the wheel openings, sometimes the center or the headlights or side marker lights.
This Duster was set to sit 24 1/2" at the top of the wheel arches. This left a little of the top of the tires visible. For myself, I like the top of the tire to tuck up in the body a bit like so:
The Duster though needs to have appeal to more than just me though since it is a project car that I don't intend to keep.
Trying to get a ball joint or tie rod end loose without damaging the boot has been a pisser. The method of tapping on each side with opposing hammers sometimes works. I always forget to try a gear puller.
I was at a turning point over the weekend. I had two ways to go: Forge ahead and replace the core plugs in the engine either with the engine in place or by pulling it later OR just finish the front end rebuild and close the book on that.
It made more sense to me to finish the rebuild. I got the torsion bars in and set the ride height.
Now, old fashioned Mopar mechanics will tell us/me that the correct method is to follow the factory service manual where you measure from the suspension to the floor. I don't do it that way. I've never done it that way. Since the 80s, I've raised or lowered maybe 45-50 cars between what I've owned or cars that I've worked on with friends. Remember in the 80s and 90s when a lowered car or truck was a popular thing with young enthusiasts?
I owned a lowered Camaro....
YES, the monochromatic look was popular in the 80s!
Ha ha....Oh the stuff we thought was cool sometimes looks weird a few years later.
Back on point: I take my measurements from the highest point on the wheel openings, sometimes the center or the headlights or side marker lights.
This Duster was set to sit 24 1/2" at the top of the wheel arches. This left a little of the top of the tires visible. For myself, I like the top of the tire to tuck up in the body a bit like so:
The Duster though needs to have appeal to more than just me though since it is a project car that I don't intend to keep.