Front end rebuild 1972 Duster
One of those would be great to have, Sir.
With the torsion bars back in and adjusted, the tires are on, the LCA bolts were tightened and the UCA cam bolts were left slightly loose so I can move them during alignment.
Awhile back, I bought this alignment gauge.
It has a magnetic base to stick to the hub.
The outer bubbles are for camber, the inner is for caster.
There are a few ways to use it. for my Charger with 18" aluminum (non magnetic) wheels, I had to hold the gauge against the wheel hub.
I had a thread at FBBO about this method of alignment. A member posted up the idea of a steel plate with a threaded collar to attach to the end of the spindle so I made this:
This works as long as the threads engage enough to make the plate feel snug and as long as the plate clears the hub of the wheel.
For these wheels, I had to remove the cap.
Next was the cotter key and that thin retainer.
Next.....
One of those would be great to have, Sir.
With the torsion bars back in and adjusted, the tires are on, the LCA bolts were tightened and the UCA cam bolts were left slightly loose so I can move them during alignment.
Awhile back, I bought this alignment gauge.
It has a magnetic base to stick to the hub.
The outer bubbles are for camber, the inner is for caster.
There are a few ways to use it. for my Charger with 18" aluminum (non magnetic) wheels, I had to hold the gauge against the wheel hub.
I had a thread at FBBO about this method of alignment. A member posted up the idea of a steel plate with a threaded collar to attach to the end of the spindle so I made this:
This works as long as the threads engage enough to make the plate feel snug and as long as the plate clears the hub of the wheel.
For these wheels, I had to remove the cap.
Next was the cotter key and that thin retainer.
Next.....