Front end rebuild 1972 Duster

The following will seem like I am lying but this is the absolute truth.
Somehow, after it all has been apart, adjusted and everything, the toe numbers came in almost perfect with no adjustment needed.

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Yeah. Sometimes I am just really lucky. I first started the car and spun the wheel full left, then counted the turns to full right. I counted 3 1/2. I then turned 1 3/4 turns to center the steering and make it equal both directions. Then I set up a DeWalt laser to first align the left front wheel.

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I got 1 5/8” to the rim bead at the back of the rear tire and the front. 95B61132-3C46-4200-B38B-3B4E2313A282.jpeg

32A5EDA9-A4F1-461B-ADDC-C9042AA5F620.jpegNow this car has the famous 1973-76 11” A body disc brake swap that often makes the front track wider but I also have a 68-70 B body 8 3/4” axle that is 3” wider overall compared to a stock axle. The track front and rear turned out to be the same because the front wheel is also 1 5/8” in from the laser line.

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Next, toe plates and tape measures.

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Now I checked the measurements at the rear and front. Equal numbers indicates zero toe. A bigger measurement at the front means toe OUT. A bigger measurement at the rear means toe IN. You want some toe IN for street driving. The understanding is that due to rolling resistance of the tires, a little toe IN makes it so the tires will be near zero toe when driving. Here is what I got…..