Cam swap without pulling motor
Since the heads were off and the compression is low, I had the heads milled 0.070" as seen in the picture below. I realize that changing pistons is the best way to go about upping the compression. You guys told me that and you are correct. This is just something I wanted to try. A previous refresh already had milled the heads 0.008" so the total off the deck face is 0.078". The intake face of the head was also milled 95% of the 0.078".
The factory 1.88/1.60 valves are shown on the right. I have a set of 2.02/1.60 nail head valves that I would like to install (as seen on the left), but I'll probably have to sink the intake valve a little to get some top angle. If I install the 2.02 valve the valve job would be 38/45/60/75.
What is the minimum top cut width I should try to get by with? Milling the heads removed the ridge in the chamber on the short side of the intake valve. I bet removing this ridge has increased high lift reversion flow.
Since the heads were off and the compression is low, I had the heads milled 0.070" as seen in the picture below. I realize that changing pistons is the best way to go about upping the compression. You guys told me that and you are correct. This is just something I wanted to try. A previous refresh already had milled the heads 0.008" so the total off the deck face is 0.078". The intake face of the head was also milled 95% of the 0.078".
The factory 1.88/1.60 valves are shown on the right. I have a set of 2.02/1.60 nail head valves that I would like to install (as seen on the left), but I'll probably have to sink the intake valve a little to get some top angle. If I install the 2.02 valve the valve job would be 38/45/60/75.
What is the minimum top cut width I should try to get by with? Milling the heads removed the ridge in the chamber on the short side of the intake valve. I bet removing this ridge has increased high lift reversion flow.