Spindle Replacement
It isn't as if I am broke, I just don't throw away stuff that still has life to it.
To be specific, the red arrows are pointing at the knuckle, the yellow arrow points to the spindle on the knuckle.
Again, these are really strong.
I have to confess....I first looked at this thread and your pictures while I was using my phone. Small pictures and old eyes had me thinking that the scratches and gouges in the spindle shafts were limited to the middle areas.
I was wrong.
The red arrow points to the inner wheel bearing hub. That looks fine. The purple arrows are where the outer wheel bearing rides and oooof! It looks horrible there. The rollers on the bearings will ride on that rough surface and get destroyed in short order. There is no saving them.
Those are actually THE knuckles/spindles to have because they allow the use of factory parts and they allow for great alignment. You have options. You could buy new reproductions, you could search wrecking yards or you could put out a Want To Buy ad online. (Here as well) As far as used ones, you may find similar ones to be easier to find, I'm referring to the later versions used on all other rear wheel drive Mopars from 1973-1989. These are often referred to as the FMJ knuckles. They are 2 lbs lighter each, 3/8" taller but still fit and work just the same. They align in a similar manner to the A body units but there are some slight changes that only a really good driver would ever notice. I'm not a good enough driver to be able to tell the difference.
In regards to the 1975 Dart that I jumped....
In 1998-99, I made a video movie with the help of family and some friends. In it, I had wrecks, stunts and some off road trail drifting. This Dart was the bad guy car...I built jump ramps and got this car 4 feet in the air a couple of times with one jump that spanned 45 feet. I wanted to be able to drive it back home so I didn't hit the ramps at more than 35 mph.
I sold the car to a guy that wanted the slant six and 904. He gave the car back to me after pulling the engine. I saved the front brakes and some interior parts. The knuckles/spindles, rotors, brake booster and master cylinder ALL went into this car to replace the front drums:
I still have the knuckles in place. A few months back I replaced the upper control arms with QA 1 units and aligned the car to 8 degrees of positive caster, 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe IN. The car has always tracked straight and handled well.
Good luck with whatever you do.
The Dr Diff knuckles are priced fair.
I am the guy that doesn't toss a bone that still has meat on it.
It isn't as if I am broke, I just don't throw away stuff that still has life to it.
To be specific, the red arrows are pointing at the knuckle, the yellow arrow points to the spindle on the knuckle.
Again, these are really strong.
I have to confess....I first looked at this thread and your pictures while I was using my phone. Small pictures and old eyes had me thinking that the scratches and gouges in the spindle shafts were limited to the middle areas.
I was wrong.
The red arrow points to the inner wheel bearing hub. That looks fine. The purple arrows are where the outer wheel bearing rides and oooof! It looks horrible there. The rollers on the bearings will ride on that rough surface and get destroyed in short order. There is no saving them.
Those are actually THE knuckles/spindles to have because they allow the use of factory parts and they allow for great alignment. You have options. You could buy new reproductions, you could search wrecking yards or you could put out a Want To Buy ad online. (Here as well) As far as used ones, you may find similar ones to be easier to find, I'm referring to the later versions used on all other rear wheel drive Mopars from 1973-1989. These are often referred to as the FMJ knuckles. They are 2 lbs lighter each, 3/8" taller but still fit and work just the same. They align in a similar manner to the A body units but there are some slight changes that only a really good driver would ever notice. I'm not a good enough driver to be able to tell the difference.
In regards to the 1975 Dart that I jumped....
In 1998-99, I made a video movie with the help of family and some friends. In it, I had wrecks, stunts and some off road trail drifting. This Dart was the bad guy car...I built jump ramps and got this car 4 feet in the air a couple of times with one jump that spanned 45 feet. I wanted to be able to drive it back home so I didn't hit the ramps at more than 35 mph.
I sold the car to a guy that wanted the slant six and 904. He gave the car back to me after pulling the engine. I saved the front brakes and some interior parts. The knuckles/spindles, rotors, brake booster and master cylinder ALL went into this car to replace the front drums:
I still have the knuckles in place. A few months back I replaced the upper control arms with QA 1 units and aligned the car to 8 degrees of positive caster, 1 degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe IN. The car has always tracked straight and handled well.
Good luck with whatever you do.
The Dr Diff knuckles are priced fair.