Working with 3D printing replacement early A-body parts

I can understand the concerns here. That is why I'm not using PLA (although the PLA shift knob in my daily driver has held up for over 2 months in Atlanta sun so far, dash vents will be subject to more heat), ABS, or PETG. The low end option I have is a polyurethane, and the higher end is a SLA resin that uses light curing rather than melting and forming it. The print farm I'm working with could print these in nylon with a 600 degree F melting point or even stainless steel, but I doubt anyone's interested in paying what that would cost. (If you are, let me know! A stainless version would have the threads cut instead of relying on the nuts' teeth, so it would need a new CAD model.) The design also has a few anti-sag features built in - the vanes are taller than stock, for example, and curved instead of flat to better resist warping.

I expect the TPU version is going to have the striations you usually see in 3D printed parts, but it's meant to be a functional, cost effective version while those more concerned with the best appearance can go with SLA resin. Resin printing has a much smoother appearance. Some of the things I intend to print, the only competition out there is going to be used parts that have had 50 years of temperature cycles and are already quite brittle.