Quick valve lash questions...
Only other issue now is my carb is still crazy rich at idle, like melt my eyes out rich. Gonna take it apart to check float levels at a later date, and get a pressure gauge to check pressure, have read that the street demon doesn't like a lot of pressure.
That burn-your-eyes-out exhaust, is the sign that your engine wants some Idle-Bypass Air, or has in intake leak sucking oil.
On a street car, with a cam of less than 292/292/108advertised, (the biggest I have tuned); and with a standard 2-corner idle system
1) Reset your Transfer Slot exposure to a little taller than wide,
2) reset you mixture screws in the middle of their operating range,
3) after this do not touch the speed screw.
4) Using Ignition timing, Idle your engine down to around 700>800,
5) introduce some Bypass air into the PCV system. a little atta time, until your timing is down to ~14 degrees with a consistent happy idle.
I do this by Tee'ing into the PCV system with a plastic pipe capped on the end. Then I drill two holes into the pipe, starting at 1/16 inch each. Do not exceed 3/32 unless you are very sure you need that much. Then drive it around for a couple of hours.
Then re-access the results. If you drill too-big holes,(1/8th would be too big for sure) the Idle-rpm will go too high, and to get it back down, you will have to take timing out. So it's better to be a hair too small with a slightly higher idle.
6) after you get rid of the stink; you can reset your mixture screws.
6a) if you find that the engine idles best with the mixture screws set lean, then the low-speed circuit is already too rich, so CLOSE the speed screw a tad, which will close the transfer. maybe in the range of 1/4 to 3/8 turn. Then richen the mixture screws back towards the middle.
6b) If it idles best with the mixture screws rich, then go the other way.
6c) when that has been set, revisit your idle speed. If too slow, add a bit of timing. If too fast subtract some timing.
7) what is too fast/ too slow?
7a) If too fast, it will bang into gear and/or lurch the car. This happens because the engine is idling at too high a power setting, most likely because it has too much timing. Do not upset the transfer slot synchronization by adjusting the speed screw; leave it alone. The right thing to do is to retard the idle timing. If it gets to be below 12* most likely your bypass holes are too big.
7b) If too slow, either the timing is too retarded, or the engine wants MORE bypass air; give it a touch more bypass, and start over.
8) once you get the size of the bypass holes figured out, you can prove the measurements and transfer the holes to the Primary throttle blades; ONE HOLE in each, and I drill them on the front side between the discharge ports pointing the holes at ~5/16ths from the front edge. I chamfer both sides just a bit.
Don't forget to remove the Tee.
There are other methods;
1) If you have a 4-corner idle system you can crack the secondaries. But if your cam is too small, this may just make it worse.
2) If your carb has replaceable air bleeds, you can accomplish the same thing with those.