340 Overheat / Radiator Geyser

Update...Timing is now at 40 degrees total. I'm not sure what it was before I changed it (yeah I know), but the idle speed is lower now. No change. Meanwhile the gauge on my pressure tester that I went to storage yesterday to retrieve quit working, so there's that. Today I let it run only 15-20 minutes. This thing climbs to 1/2 on the gauge after only maybe 2 or 3 minutes. I have a thermostat and cap ordered. Temp gauge was just over half when I shut it down today. I did not get the dramatic immediate geyser, but coolant gushed out pretty good after only 2 or 3 seconds. Another big mess to clean on the roof. There is no spring in the lower hose. I have no air, water, or even electricity at my disposal here so I have to perform a 1-man bucket brigade from the 6th floor roof to my 1st floor apartment to be able to rinse stuff off. Thank God for Mr. Otis. As others have said, I-think something is plugged-up real good or the impeller is effed-up. The corrosion on the exterior of the water pump has me very curious. Remember I do the best I can with the resources available to me in an apartment in the city. Lots of pretty girls here in Nashville, though but none of them want me.

On one of those trips, if you shoot the rad imput/output temps when hot, and we know the new rad is doing its job of shedding 50*ish, then we can eliminate that and try other stuff.
If the rad is 180* ish at the top, and 170+*ish out the bottom, that would be a problem.
The blow back is kinda like the pumps doing its thing creating pressure while running, then when shut off, the pump pressure shuts off, and surges back.
We need some help here.