That certainly helps when ambient temperatures are cool like that.
I’ve posted this before but my dad had a 1988 Ford F250 and that was the last year for carbs on that stuff.
It’s tuning, cam timing and induction were so jacked up that it would book the carb dry.
I fought it for a good bit then I pulled the intake off. That giant, heavy pig iron mother.
And the bottom of the manifold was bright blue. A very pretty bright blue.
That means that thing was HOTTER than the hubs of hell. Well, not quite that hot but close.
There was no way the carb could tolerate all that heat.
So I bought a gasket with stainless steel shims to block the heat off to the intake.
That helped a bunch, but the first time I hooked the trailer up and took the car to the races it burned through the shims and by the time I got home that day the carb was again being killed by all that heat.
So I was going to pull the intake back off (I already had it back off to put new shims back in there so at least you could drive it) and I was going to weld the crossover shut.
My dad said piss on it and traded that turd off on an 89 Dodge and that nightmare was gone.
High heat under the carb is a bad thing.
Again, depending on your cooking system it may be cheaper to do the return line.
I hate doing things twice so if it was mine I’d upgrade the cooling system and do the return line.
This is why I lose my mind when guys are putting a car together and they don’t spend enough money on the cooking system.
I’m of the opinion that you should be able to drop a 160 thermostat in to a car and have the cooling system keep up, even when you have to slow roll through downtown hell.
It’s more expensive and time consuming to try an upgrade later.
Know my criticism is pointed at you. It’s at those guys who think this **** doesn’t matter when it does.
You can’t get a cooling system too good. You can’t. That’s why God gave men brains to develop stuff like a thermostat that makes it so you can control the cooling system.