My 1972 F7 Dart Swinger
I was not able to get the timing and idle set correctly. I had an issue with the carb and with the added issue with timing, I took the car over woodruff carb. Dave graciously agreed to take a look. He fixed the issue with my carb and installed a lockout plate in my distributor. Then he set timing as best he could but he put 60 something advance in it and said it wanted more. Vacuum was maxed out at 9" and it wouldn't idle without keeping foot on the gas. He suspected the timing was off a tooth.
I brought the car back and over the last two weekends, I have torn it apart to have a look. At first look, everything looked correct. I set the engine at TDC using the mark on the timing cover and the OE scribed line on the dampener. Timing marks were in alignment, rotor pointing to bolt on #1. Not wanting to put it back together without fixing anything, I walked away to research things and think about it then tackled it again this weekend.
I had the engine set at #1 compression stroke, put a piston stop in and rotated until it stopped and made a mark, rotated back the other way until it stopped and made a mark. Next, I measured the distance between those marks with calipers, divided by 2 and drew my new mark.
It appears the original dampener timing mark was not accurate. With the engine set at true TDC, I can see the timing marks on the chain sprockets are no longer aligned. Now, I have purchased a brand new dampener from Blueprint Engines and when I compare my original to my new, the 0° mark is in the same spot. So, I don't believe my original dampener slipped but I can't explain why both dampeners' marks are off by about 10°.
I bought the used cam and helped my dad assemble the engine 20 years ago. It sat on a crate in the corner of the garage until I got it installed in the car after the body work was completed. I was told it was a Mopar performance purple cam. I have done a ton of reading on those and it seems there were some quality issues in the late 90s and also a couple different SB MP purple cam grinds. So, I am still not sure what exactly I have.
Since I'm already torn this far apart, I am just going to pull the cam and see if it has any identification numbers stamped on it.
So, great people of the forum, is there something else I've overlooked when finding true TDC using the piston stop method that could explain the timing mark on the dampeners being that far off? The car is an hour away at the shop where I store and work on it. It will be the weekend before I make back to the car but I wanted to pose the question here.
I was not able to get the timing and idle set correctly. I had an issue with the carb and with the added issue with timing, I took the car over woodruff carb. Dave graciously agreed to take a look. He fixed the issue with my carb and installed a lockout plate in my distributor. Then he set timing as best he could but he put 60 something advance in it and said it wanted more. Vacuum was maxed out at 9" and it wouldn't idle without keeping foot on the gas. He suspected the timing was off a tooth.
I brought the car back and over the last two weekends, I have torn it apart to have a look. At first look, everything looked correct. I set the engine at TDC using the mark on the timing cover and the OE scribed line on the dampener. Timing marks were in alignment, rotor pointing to bolt on #1. Not wanting to put it back together without fixing anything, I walked away to research things and think about it then tackled it again this weekend.
I had the engine set at #1 compression stroke, put a piston stop in and rotated until it stopped and made a mark, rotated back the other way until it stopped and made a mark. Next, I measured the distance between those marks with calipers, divided by 2 and drew my new mark.
It appears the original dampener timing mark was not accurate. With the engine set at true TDC, I can see the timing marks on the chain sprockets are no longer aligned. Now, I have purchased a brand new dampener from Blueprint Engines and when I compare my original to my new, the 0° mark is in the same spot. So, I don't believe my original dampener slipped but I can't explain why both dampeners' marks are off by about 10°.
I bought the used cam and helped my dad assemble the engine 20 years ago. It sat on a crate in the corner of the garage until I got it installed in the car after the body work was completed. I was told it was a Mopar performance purple cam. I have done a ton of reading on those and it seems there were some quality issues in the late 90s and also a couple different SB MP purple cam grinds. So, I am still not sure what exactly I have.
Since I'm already torn this far apart, I am just going to pull the cam and see if it has any identification numbers stamped on it.
So, great people of the forum, is there something else I've overlooked when finding true TDC using the piston stop method that could explain the timing mark on the dampeners being that far off? The car is an hour away at the shop where I store and work on it. It will be the weekend before I make back to the car but I wanted to pose the question here.