~450hp from stock stroke 340?

What did you use for a head flow number? To the OP, I would not put a hydraulic roller in it. Solid, the maintenance is so overstated, check it once a year and you’re done. It’s like a physical for your engine. You choose a roller so you can snap the valve open to a useable lift quicker, but then saddle it with a lifter that will either pump up or more likely bleed down. Not a chance would I go hydr. Everything else is pretty serious performance orientated, then you tie your shoe laces together. I would suggest you search hydr roller lifter issues. I’m not saying you can’t get them to work, but you are going roller for a reason that is in direct conflict with a hydr lifter. Not to mention rollers REALLY don’t like bouncing when it does bleed down.

Not sure who posted it or how long ago but a member on here posted flow numbers of various cylinder heads for various lift as he tested them on a flow meter and I used the flow number for X heads at around .400-.500 lift as I have .484 lift. It can be found with search function, that’s how I found it.

As for using hydraulic lifters in performance applications, it’s fine if you are running under .500 lift on single valve spring seat pressures. However, once you go double valve springs with those increased spring seat pressures I agree that you should use solid lifters. Also do expect more that 6000 RPM of performance out of said hydraulic lifters on single valve springs.

I had to redo top end of my 340 in car due to lifer issues, bent pushrods, and worn out factory rockers. I installed Crower hydraulic flat tappet lifters, Smith Brothers pushrods, and Harland Sharp adjustable roller rockers and shafts. I even mounted the brake booster on a 1” Hemi master cylinder offset bracket on the firewall to make it possible to easily remove driver side valve cover to check the adjustment, and reusable Moroso valve cover gaskets. Therefore if I were to do it again, I would go solid roller lifters and cam. But at the time I had additional car to rebuild to safe and reliable so throwing multiple grand at full engine rebuild didn’t make sense so I made a significant improvement and moved on.

Also the online calculator might say 390 hp but that is perfect conditions… and no shortcomings in the overall setup and tune, so I knock 30 hp off that for a more realistic number on my setup.