I’m out of power
Normally when you have these symptoms AND NO headlights, it is a problem in the most basic supply circuit, the ammeter circuit.
Review the MAD article and especially the simplified diagram:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Follow along in the diagram:
Replacing the fuse link was a good guess, but as Rusty says, you need to actually diagnose. It can save you time AND money
FIRST get a meter and test lamp, and maybe even some alligator clip jumper leads
Do you have power to ground at the big stud on the starter relay? Does the starter crank if you jumper the start relay? Then the battery posts/ clamps and main cables are OK
Next, check for 12V AT THE alternator main stud. If you have power there, turn on the headlight switch, no lights? Then recheck at the alternator. No power now? Then, follow the diagram:
The power comes off the starter relay stud, through the fuse link, and THROUGH THE bulkhead connector on the BIG RED ammeter wire. The bulkhead connector terminals can be bad. Then the RED goes on to the ammeter. THE AMMETER terminals can be compromised/ burnt/ loose/ etc, and not conducting. Wiggle the bulkhead connector, wiggle the wires on the ammeter. Then power goes through and out the ammeter on the BIG BLACK wire coming off the ammeter.
NOTICE THE welded splice. NOTICE power branches off to the hot buss to the fuse panel, to the ignition switch, and to the headlight switch. THAT WELDED SPLICE can and has failed but it is rare.
Last power continues out through the bulkhead into the engine bay on the BIG BLACK and to the alternator.
Normally when you have these symptoms AND NO headlights, it is a problem in the most basic supply circuit, the ammeter circuit.
Review the MAD article and especially the simplified diagram:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Follow along in the diagram:
Replacing the fuse link was a good guess, but as Rusty says, you need to actually diagnose. It can save you time AND money
FIRST get a meter and test lamp, and maybe even some alligator clip jumper leads
Do you have power to ground at the big stud on the starter relay? Does the starter crank if you jumper the start relay? Then the battery posts/ clamps and main cables are OK
Next, check for 12V AT THE alternator main stud. If you have power there, turn on the headlight switch, no lights? Then recheck at the alternator. No power now? Then, follow the diagram:
The power comes off the starter relay stud, through the fuse link, and THROUGH THE bulkhead connector on the BIG RED ammeter wire. The bulkhead connector terminals can be bad. Then the RED goes on to the ammeter. THE AMMETER terminals can be compromised/ burnt/ loose/ etc, and not conducting. Wiggle the bulkhead connector, wiggle the wires on the ammeter. Then power goes through and out the ammeter on the BIG BLACK wire coming off the ammeter.
NOTICE THE welded splice. NOTICE power branches off to the hot buss to the fuse panel, to the ignition switch, and to the headlight switch. THAT WELDED SPLICE can and has failed but it is rare.
Last power continues out through the bulkhead into the engine bay on the BIG BLACK and to the alternator.