Cam Phasing

TT5.9mag said
Ive never trusted the offset keyways. The section width right at the corner where they offset the key gets fairly thin and shear strength has to suffer. Not to mention stress risers from the corners themselves. But, I do know it’s been done that way for years and years. Ive used the double roller billet set from summit and been very happy with them, lots of adjustment and they’re only $100.

Summit Racing SUM-G6603R-B Summit Racing™ Billet Steel Timing Sets | Summit Racing

That's not really how it works....

Demonx2 said
In today's "modern" engines, a key simply locates and is not intended to carry any shear loads. The bolt stretch provides clamp load which creates a joint held in place by friction.
I wouldn't know what our forefathers designed "back in the day" on these old engines. I doubt they used the key to carry shear but I wasn't there (I'm old but not that old!).

I have used offset keys in the past to get a cam degreed where I wanted it. Sometimes an offset key and a tooth off in the other direction - whatever it took to get the proper centerline. I've never had any issues with offset keys but IIRC the most I used was a 4 degree key. FWIW.

Modern engines, my foot. (other than that, DemonX2 is 100% right).
The key was never designed to carry load, ever.

The sprocket bolt that clamps the cam sprocket to the cam is what makes the spinny-magic happen. The clamp load from sprocket to cam is what locks the two together. I ain't doing the math but there's hundreds of pounds of force holding the cam to the sprocket when the bolt is properly torqued.

The keys are supposed to be weak. If something goes south, the intent is to shear the key and not eat up the nice expensive components (although on a small block Mopar you're likely going to trash the valves if this happens).

The key is an alignment aid only and carries no, I repeat NO load.