Thermostat placement RV2 compressor
The probe goes into the evaporator? just push it in anywhere between the fins?
Yes, that's one way to do it. Not the best way; that placement is more for OE clutch-cycling switches adjustable by a dashboard slider or knob. This what you've got isn't that kind of switch.
I assume the sticky tape is to mount the unit on the dash?
No, that's insulating tape. It's for if you decide, rather than drilling holes in the box under the dash, to put the the clutch-cycling thermostatic switch (which is what this is) in the engine bay. If your low-side line doesn't have an available capillary tube tunnel on the metal part near the firewall (either because there is none or because it is occupied by the expansion valve's capillary tube), you wrap the CCTS' capillary tube around that metal part of the low-side line, then insulate it from the outside world by overwrapping it with the tape.
This is the better way to do it; you want the CCTS to sense the temperature at the tail end of the evaporator, not at some random middle point. It is also the easier way by far, and it allows ready access to the adjustment screws on the CCTS, with which you set the cut-in and cut-out points to optimize the system's performance.
It is also the
intended way.
I’m confused about the mesh screen and O ring included in the kit also. What do we do with that?
Looks like that's meant to go where the EPR valve used to be, in the compressor where the rear (low-side) fitting bolts on. Remember, you need to remove the EPR valve when converting to R134a and installing a CCTS.
Also what electricals are you unplugging and plugging into the thermostat unit itself?
This CCTS goes in series with the power feed to the compressor clutch. So, you splice it into the wire going to the compressor clutch.
If you want to be smart and preserve your hard-and-expensive-to-find mode selector (and reduce the risk of a fire), you add a relay to the clutch circuit so the wire leading to the clutch goes to a new relay mounted conveniently in the engine bay, and the relay powers the clutch. That way the wires and switches inside the car (and the bulkhead terminals) handle only low current, and the relay does the heavy lifting on the other side of the firewall.
Relay hookup is easy. Start with a good, reliable brand of 4-terminal relay. Terminal 30 goes to ignition-on +12v via a fuse of the same rating as the one presently protecting the A/C clutch circuit.
Terminal 87 goes to the clutch.
Terminal 86 gets the present clutch wire.
Terminal 85 goes to ground.