Electronic Distributors From Rick Ehrenberg

The 1970 models got the electronic regulator.
I've had an alternator on the car that charges fine except when the A/C fan is on, headlights and low rpms. The day the ECM failed, I don't know what the battery voltage was when I left the house. It may have been lower than ideal. When it stalled and shut down, it seemed to crank slower and slower in a short amount of time like the battery wasn't anywhere near a full charge. I tested it before I went back for the trailer..I was at 12.01 amps. A couple of years ago I was amazed to learn of what is considered a fully charged battery. See the chart:

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In short, each tenth of an amp is approximately 10%. It still boggles my mind.
I tried cranking each time I tried something new...Wire connections on the ballast, coil, distributor, change the ballast, change the ECM...by then it would barely spin over. At home I swapped in a generic ECM...

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It started and ran fine. A couple weeks later, it crapped out. It seems like something in this car shortens the life of these ECMs.
a bad diode in the rectifier bridge may introduce ac ripple that may hurt it. thats inside the alt. I would check the volts running then switch the VOM to AC milivolts and see if there is any AC, give it some rpm 2000, 3000, 4000 see if it shows any ac and then what it gets up to on DC.
Somewhere I was reading one of the kits I'm looking at said to use a relay to power the ignition because a low voltage would hurt the module.
I been reading so many kits I cant remember where I seen that. You could order a new transistor off digikey and replace that ST one in the mopar box. just punch in the part number. The high rev I'm not sure. I also dont know if you can open those boxes either