ALERT !! Tragedy !! 67Dart273
Also, I came up which seems to be a fairly workable, well regulated, and I hope dependable heating "system" for the trailer. The only actual system in the trailer is an RV type furnace, which operates actually on 12V, supplied by a 120V to 12V power supply which charges the batteries. Do not want to use that except emergencies, or maybe very cold days
So I built this box...........
The trailer requires one 30a 120V circuit. I had a couple "too short" large gauge extension cord for the 50A welder circuit, and bought a nice 6 ga. 80ft cord, which required different connectors, from the neighbor. This get me 240V 50A to the trailer.
This feeds an old breaker box, temporarily mounted to the rear bumper, and an RV connector mounted off the side of it which then connects to the trailer supply
BUT I ran two X 120V 20A, no 12 circuits separately into the trailer from the box. These are separate from the actual trailer wiring.
These directly feed the box below. Each leg of the two 20A circuits feed an AC contactor, controlled by a wall stat and 24V transformer.
Each T stat switched leg then feeds separate, dedicated, temporary receptacles.
Plugged into these are two portable "milkhouse" heaters, both with tip switches, and for now, set on low power, about 1KW each. Also off one receptacle, I ran a GOOD quality heavy extension, to run a small heater up on the shelf by the bed. It is on low power, nominal 850W. Last two nights I had the T stat down to 65, and during the day and last evening, it maintained a nearly perfect temp in the trailer.
The poor quality T stats on the heaters are twisted up above the set point of the wall stat, and thus serve as "hi limit" protection
This is an T stat I had, which did work, but it chatters the relay. So last night I spent 27 bucks on a non programmable but digital. Works very well
Also, I came up which seems to be a fairly workable, well regulated, and I hope dependable heating "system" for the trailer. The only actual system in the trailer is an RV type furnace, which operates actually on 12V, supplied by a 120V to 12V power supply which charges the batteries. Do not want to use that except emergencies, or maybe very cold days
So I built this box...........
The trailer requires one 30a 120V circuit. I had a couple "too short" large gauge extension cord for the 50A welder circuit, and bought a nice 6 ga. 80ft cord, which required different connectors, from the neighbor. This get me 240V 50A to the trailer.
This feeds an old breaker box, temporarily mounted to the rear bumper, and an RV connector mounted off the side of it which then connects to the trailer supply
BUT I ran two X 120V 20A, no 12 circuits separately into the trailer from the box. These are separate from the actual trailer wiring.
These directly feed the box below. Each leg of the two 20A circuits feed an AC contactor, controlled by a wall stat and 24V transformer.
Each T stat switched leg then feeds separate, dedicated, temporary receptacles.
Plugged into these are two portable "milkhouse" heaters, both with tip switches, and for now, set on low power, about 1KW each. Also off one receptacle, I ran a GOOD quality heavy extension, to run a small heater up on the shelf by the bed. It is on low power, nominal 850W. Last two nights I had the T stat down to 65, and during the day and last evening, it maintained a nearly perfect temp in the trailer.
The poor quality T stats on the heaters are twisted up above the set point of the wall stat, and thus serve as "hi limit" protection
This is an T stat I had, which did work, but it chatters the relay. So last night I spent 27 bucks on a non programmable but digital. Works very well