No Headlights 2.0

Now is a good time to get out your volt meter, set it to test continuity and troubleshoot exactly where the switch failed. Doing things like this will help immensely in the future when it comes to troubleshooting. Just another tool in your toolbox you can use to figure out exactly where the failure is coming from without needing to swap parts out first.
As I said, eventually the switch wouldn't even make the clicking sound when depressed.
So was internal in the switch; not contacts.
Not wort "investigating" where it went bad, as new one was just $10.
My personal time is worth more than the switch was.