The one Hughes sent me had an even smaller chunk of aluminum as shown in the picture...
I told Hughes that I wanted the long nose cam and was willing to wait until they had one in stock, instead those bastards sent me a short nose cam and the hokey nose extension so they could charge me the extra for the nose extension since both cams are the same price... That's why I don't do business with Hughes since... They lost a customer over that cheap play to charge me extra for the cam and nose gear vs just sending me the correct cam...
Picture the failure mode: The hokey Hughes metal chunk may shear, then the cam will stop spinning holding the valves open, then the crank will keep spinning until one of the pistons hits the valve and launches the piston and connecting rod through the side of the block, destroying the engine...
I went to the hardware store and bought a standard keyway and ground it down so it was in the cam and the nose extension for mine... See the gap between the holey chunk of metal and the cam gear... Get a keyway and grind it down on a bench grinder so you have more engagement by filling the whole slot for the keyway in the cam gear... It reduces stress on the keyway by having more engagement... Use the full area of the slot in the cam gear with the keyway to minimize the shear force and prevent the timing gear from spinning on the cam when the engine is running... I'm not going to let their lack of engineering ruin my engine...
However, I recommend getting a cam with a nose and using the standard style keyway and cam eccentric... It's cheaper to buy a new cam with the proper nose, than blow up an engine... Maek it like Chrysler originally designed it and has proven to work with decades of reliable engines in the field...
Build the engine right the first time, and then you won't have to do it over later....
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