Wiring Issue Headlamp not working Continued...
The ammeter will show if current is flowing.
Use that with your voltage readings to help figure out where the jam up is.
If the needle is centered, no current is flowing in or out of the battery.
Extreme positions are 40 amps discharge to 40 amps charge.
(Anything over 25 amps will cause damage if continues for long periods of time, and 40 amps will cause damage quickly.)
Everything below assumes engine off, so power is coming from the battery.
With the dome light on, the needle should show small discharge. maybe 5 amps.
The voltage at the battery positive and at main splice and the fuse box should be exactly the same. If not, there is high resistance in the line.
Because the alternator is not being used, you can take a voltage reading at the alternator's output stud to find the voltage at the main splice.
With the lights on the ammeter should show around 12 amps discharge. 9 amps to the headlights, and 3 to the parking and tail lights. If the dome light is on, then a little more.
The voltage at the battery positive and at main splice, the fuse box, and the headlight switch, should be close to the same. If not, there is resistance in the line.
The dome light, hazard, and parking/tail lights all share the same fuse.
At leasr on my 67, the wires are connected as shown above. The factory tried to avoid big splices and jointed wires together at terminals whenever possible.
The ammeter will show if current is flowing.
Use that with your voltage readings to help figure out where the jam up is.
If the needle is centered, no current is flowing in or out of the battery.
Extreme positions are 40 amps discharge to 40 amps charge.
(Anything over 25 amps will cause damage if continues for long periods of time, and 40 amps will cause damage quickly.)
Everything below assumes engine off, so power is coming from the battery.
With the dome light on, the needle should show small discharge. maybe 5 amps.
The voltage at the battery positive and at main splice and the fuse box should be exactly the same. If not, there is high resistance in the line.
Because the alternator is not being used, you can take a voltage reading at the alternator's output stud to find the voltage at the main splice.
With the lights on the ammeter should show around 12 amps discharge. 9 amps to the headlights, and 3 to the parking and tail lights. If the dome light is on, then a little more.
The voltage at the battery positive and at main splice, the fuse box, and the headlight switch, should be close to the same. If not, there is resistance in the line.
The dome light, hazard, and parking/tail lights all share the same fuse.
At leasr on my 67, the wires are connected as shown above. The factory tried to avoid big splices and jointed wires together at terminals whenever possible.