racerjoe said

It is bottoming out and it was before I even put this setup on the car. If you look close at the second picture, my inside rear is slightly off the ground. Ths only happens on high speed sharp turns. Denny supplies a 1" solid sway bar, the Hotchkis bar I used to run was 1.5" hollow. Using the Addco online sway bar stiffness calculator, there's a significant stiffness difference between the two. A member here, @bjkadron volunteered to help me do some mathing once I get him some weights for him. I'm going to make a splined end tubing type sway bar and I want to make sure I pick the right size tubing. Had he not volunteered, I would have just gone with the same size tubing the Hotchkis bar has, 1.5" x .188" wall. I may end up with that, but at least I'll have some math behind it instead of just guessing.

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racerjoe said

Yes, still have the 450lb springs. That's another thing that Benjamin will evaluate for me. I don't want to go too stiff on the spring if the bar can make up for it. After all, I still street drive this thing and I wouldn't want to make it so stiff that it becomes unpleasant. I'm going to scratch make everything for the sway bar and I'll detail it all here. I figured out a relatively "cheap" solution. The base of the design will be a larger diameter tube that spans across the current mounting points to add some rigidity. That tube will have bushings in the ends that can be swapped out to match the diameter of the actual sway bar tube. I also plant to have a few holes in the arms so I'll have some finite adjustability. I'll also ditch the poly bushings and go with heim joints. I'll have to see if those end up being too harsh for street driving. If they are, I can simply make up something with a bushing for one side and swap it out when needed.

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