Insulating a metal shop?
ESP47,
I'm (painfully!) going thru this process AFTER moving all of my shite in.....having an empty shop and 2-4 extra hands would be fantastic! But when I was exited from my job earlier than planned.....had to SHOVEL stuff when we moved! It's all good.....just not ideal when doing this work. EMPTY or near BUILDING IS BEST and FASTEST!!!!
First, the foam board ISO type, is highly recommended by many..... There is a guy out in Fairfield that sells "seconds" on Craigslist. Probably 30% of Home Depot cost. Some can be a little banged up....but he's not averse to haggling on bits like that! Plus you are going to likely need some odd pieces anyway, so cutting off one bad edge is no biggie. 1" should be good for you....but he has all the way up to 2" and maybe more.
I made up tin spacers to keep the insulation about 3/4" off of the tin, out of HD tin 2x4 studs..... I'm probably WAY TOO ADD on this but it works....a LOT of work, but I didn't want to use wood glued in.....as we have termites here.......they love everything wood....although I now kinda doubt that they'd survive on the south facing wall very well....that sun HEATS up that tin and the buggers would likely bake.... But that said, a 3/4" strip of wood material would go MUCH faster than my way....
I am using sheet metal screws and large insulation washers to retain the insulation to the tin pieces that I glued to the wall with "PRO180" or BOSS180.....CRS at the moment....but the stuff is good to 180 degrees!!! Costs a tad more per tube, but what's money at this stage.....ugh! As long as it works, it's worth the extra pesos!!!! Cures in 24 hours and is VERY strong! It will hold up the fairly light ISO board. I put 3 attachment points at each end of the 8' length and 3 in the middle at 4'. So that's a total 9 points holding the stuff in place. Cut 10" to join two pieces, 5" for the center and very ends.
The Right Stuff foam OR Loctite "Tite Foam" Gaps and Cracks, (or "Large Gaps" if you need!) is recommended from my research. The Loctite supposedly yellows less..... and is a little cheaper..... I found it on sale and picked up a couple of cans and have yet to try it out!
Right now, I'm still fighting with my barrier bubble type ceiling stuff to finish that portion while I have borrowed scaffloding (STILL!!!! Has been months, didn't help that wife busted her leg in a squirrel hole....). 15' to go and and then odd stuff... One man job this is not....but I'm slowly progressing........ Have yet to engineer how to fit the stuff up against my fiberglass "sun panels"....due to a 9" gap between the bottom of the purlin and the tin roof..... My insulation for the most part just goes from purlin to purlin.....BUTT light wiring and electrical boxes etc make the job SOOOOO NOT enjoyable!
NOTE TO OTHERS CONSIDERING A NEW BUILDING: IF you have the option of buying insulation pre-installed..... DOOO ITTTT!!!!!!! You will send me spare 340 performance parts later!! :) A buddy suggested yanking the roof off of the building and putting the insulation on, then reattach the tin! I scoffed at that idea.....but now.....it doesn't sound so outer space!!!!! You WILL Need scaffolding otherwise.....two 8' pieces works well....three would be closer to heaven!
I'm going to stop now, but send me a PM via the board here and I can get you contact info if you want to talk directly.........
Here are a couple of pics of various.......
OK, pictures are not happening at the moment.....will come back later and try it...... Have a full day with car club holiday dinner tonite! Gotta get prepared.....since I am big kahuna, I need to be ready!
Cheers!
Steve
Metal spacers/installation anchors.
This is area over steps to "balcony". Did not want to walk into insulation with my head every time up the steps..... same with storage areas in rest of area. Fully covered purlins. Only section that this was done, about 9' from wall. Not fun..... Used metal strapping to hold it in place at tops of purlins. Thru studs attaching it on either side.
This was a view from balcony above steps, third row of insulation tapers back down to bottom of purlin. (5' per section)
Ceiling peak vents are going to be covered.... Sun panels are going to be a Beyonce.....still working on figuring out a fairly air tight solution....
Rev A of form to reform metal for wall insulation supports. This failed...... Found that a sheet metal brake made VERY fast work of this step......flatten, hammer new bend, try and get piece now stuck on wood..... I wanted at least a half inch of glue area on tin....vs 1/4" or so as purchased.
I wouldn't say half way there.....but I am on 4th and 5th runs..... need to go back and finish 4th run..... procrastinating due to sun panels and no solution at the time! Still none.....
TMS disease BAD!!!! Shuffle scafolding, move shite.... shuffle scafolding, move shite..... had to McGuyver some more panels to stand on..... old 2x6 pieces I salvaged from an old lean-over-to! Put some rails up to grab onto if I'm going down......slow the descent.....shrink the hospital bill.....!
First wall board I put up. Wife had busted leg and was house bound so I wasn't allowed on scaffolding..... so started working on this. I need to revisit this section and pull ceiling insulation down on ends (instead of turning it up under end purlin/girt. I figured that I needed any moisture to run down wall and not gather in loop in ceiling insulation! Engineering on the fly!
And no, the building and insulation people are no help........ "talk to an insulation specialist"....OK, well who do they talk to???? Crickets.
I have a Varco Pruden building, whose tin pieces are nicely crimped at the bottom. However, not so tight at the bottom that little critters can't crawl in. This is 1/4" screen cut from a crude pattern and squished in place. Don't care about small bugs.....they can live in the space....nothing to eat but other bugs!
ESP47,
I'm (painfully!) going thru this process AFTER moving all of my shite in.....having an empty shop and 2-4 extra hands would be fantastic! But when I was exited from my job earlier than planned.....had to SHOVEL stuff when we moved! It's all good.....just not ideal when doing this work. EMPTY or near BUILDING IS BEST and FASTEST!!!!
First, the foam board ISO type, is highly recommended by many..... There is a guy out in Fairfield that sells "seconds" on Craigslist. Probably 30% of Home Depot cost. Some can be a little banged up....but he's not averse to haggling on bits like that! Plus you are going to likely need some odd pieces anyway, so cutting off one bad edge is no biggie. 1" should be good for you....but he has all the way up to 2" and maybe more.
I made up tin spacers to keep the insulation about 3/4" off of the tin, out of HD tin 2x4 studs..... I'm probably WAY TOO ADD on this but it works....a LOT of work, but I didn't want to use wood glued in.....as we have termites here.......they love everything wood....although I now kinda doubt that they'd survive on the south facing wall very well....that sun HEATS up that tin and the buggers would likely bake.... But that said, a 3/4" strip of wood material would go MUCH faster than my way....
I am using sheet metal screws and large insulation washers to retain the insulation to the tin pieces that I glued to the wall with "PRO180" or BOSS180.....CRS at the moment....but the stuff is good to 180 degrees!!! Costs a tad more per tube, but what's money at this stage.....ugh! As long as it works, it's worth the extra pesos!!!! Cures in 24 hours and is VERY strong! It will hold up the fairly light ISO board. I put 3 attachment points at each end of the 8' length and 3 in the middle at 4'. So that's a total 9 points holding the stuff in place. Cut 10" to join two pieces, 5" for the center and very ends.
The Right Stuff foam OR Loctite "Tite Foam" Gaps and Cracks, (or "Large Gaps" if you need!) is recommended from my research. The Loctite supposedly yellows less..... and is a little cheaper..... I found it on sale and picked up a couple of cans and have yet to try it out!
Right now, I'm still fighting with my barrier bubble type ceiling stuff to finish that portion while I have borrowed scaffloding (STILL!!!! Has been months, didn't help that wife busted her leg in a squirrel hole....). 15' to go and and then odd stuff... One man job this is not....but I'm slowly progressing........ Have yet to engineer how to fit the stuff up against my fiberglass "sun panels"....due to a 9" gap between the bottom of the purlin and the tin roof..... My insulation for the most part just goes from purlin to purlin.....BUTT light wiring and electrical boxes etc make the job SOOOOO NOT enjoyable!
NOTE TO OTHERS CONSIDERING A NEW BUILDING: IF you have the option of buying insulation pre-installed..... DOOO ITTTT!!!!!!! You will send me spare 340 performance parts later!! :) A buddy suggested yanking the roof off of the building and putting the insulation on, then reattach the tin! I scoffed at that idea.....but now.....it doesn't sound so outer space!!!!! You WILL Need scaffolding otherwise.....two 8' pieces works well....three would be closer to heaven!
I'm going to stop now, but send me a PM via the board here and I can get you contact info if you want to talk directly.........
Here are a couple of pics of various.......
OK, pictures are not happening at the moment.....will come back later and try it...... Have a full day with car club holiday dinner tonite! Gotta get prepared.....since I am big kahuna, I need to be ready!
Cheers!
Steve
Metal spacers/installation anchors.
This is area over steps to "balcony". Did not want to walk into insulation with my head every time up the steps..... same with storage areas in rest of area. Fully covered purlins. Only section that this was done, about 9' from wall. Not fun..... Used metal strapping to hold it in place at tops of purlins. Thru studs attaching it on either side.
This was a view from balcony above steps, third row of insulation tapers back down to bottom of purlin. (5' per section)
Ceiling peak vents are going to be covered.... Sun panels are going to be a Beyonce.....still working on figuring out a fairly air tight solution....
Rev A of form to reform metal for wall insulation supports. This failed...... Found that a sheet metal brake made VERY fast work of this step......flatten, hammer new bend, try and get piece now stuck on wood..... I wanted at least a half inch of glue area on tin....vs 1/4" or so as purchased.
I wouldn't say half way there.....but I am on 4th and 5th runs..... need to go back and finish 4th run..... procrastinating due to sun panels and no solution at the time! Still none.....
TMS disease BAD!!!! Shuffle scafolding, move shite.... shuffle scafolding, move shite..... had to McGuyver some more panels to stand on..... old 2x6 pieces I salvaged from an old lean-over-to! Put some rails up to grab onto if I'm going down......slow the descent.....shrink the hospital bill.....!
First wall board I put up. Wife had busted leg and was house bound so I wasn't allowed on scaffolding..... so started working on this. I need to revisit this section and pull ceiling insulation down on ends (instead of turning it up under end purlin/girt. I figured that I needed any moisture to run down wall and not gather in loop in ceiling insulation! Engineering on the fly!
And no, the building and insulation people are no help........ "talk to an insulation specialist"....OK, well who do they talk to???? Crickets.
I have a Varco Pruden building, whose tin pieces are nicely crimped at the bottom. However, not so tight at the bottom that little critters can't crawl in. This is 1/4" screen cut from a crude pattern and squished in place. Don't care about small bugs.....they can live in the space....nothing to eat but other bugs!