Headlight Issues
Do you have a wiring Diagram?
if not you need one.
MYMOPAR.com free download or
Classiccarwiring.com has laminated full color diagrams very reasonably priced.
So lets assume for a moment that all your wiring and switches are good....
- get a small lightbulb (like a dome light or even tail light) and some jumpers, wire up the light bulb to make a test light out of it. a commercial test light that uses a neon or LED is not the same as a incandescent test bulb, not enough load
- then with the headlight switch on and the high beam switch connector disconnected see if the light will light up between ground and any of the 3 terminals in the connector. If it lights up on one and none of the others, that's a good sign. (in 67 it is the light green wire in the connector that comes from the head light switch and should have power)
- put the high beam connector back on the switch
- next remove the headlight bezels and the headlights, do the same test on the each of the 3 terminals in the headlight connector (in 67 Red is high beam and black is low beam) if the high beam switch is in low beam mode the test light should light between ground and the black terminal ( same for high beam mode but n the ted wire.
- If that all checks out put the test light between battery plus and the ground terminal in the head light connector (in 67 its black with white tracer) If the light lights, then your ground is probably good
- That only leave the bulkhead connector
NOTE: be sure you can tell the difference between the test light being full on and on but dim.
The reason to use a test light is to add a load to the wires.
A volt meter can read full voltage on a wire that has only one strand still connected, BUT with a load that one strand will generate so much resistance that a higher load with not function.
Ohm meters are the same, they can tell you that there is continuity on a wire but not the condition of the wire.