Kickdown fine tune adjustment

If you want to increase the 1-2 upshift speed, you can do it without removing the pan.
If you have a carb with large throttle bores, it requires less throttle opening than a carb with small t/bores....to get to the same road speed [ shift speed ]. The K/D lever moves less with a big carb, all else being equal; & the trans shifts earlier, all else being equal.
The above demonstrates that it is a 'ratio thing '.

If you want later shifting: there is a rod from the carb that goes to a bracket/linkage at the back of the engine. Where this rod hooks onto the bracket, the hole or stud on that bracket needs to be repositioned closer to the pivot.
The idea is: for the same throttle open position, the K/D lever moves further, increasing line pressure & delaying the shift point. You might need to experiment with different hole positions. The same thing can be achieved with the K/D lever on the trans; move the linkake hole closer to the

340,
Is there any particular reason you want to extend the shift speed in each gear?
I always went the opposite way for normal driving. Quick upshifts & let the t/converter do the work.
Initially it felt like it was starting in 3rd gear, sluggish acceleration no torque it wasn’t winding out at all. I wasn’t getting any 3-2 kick down either. None when I punched it. Just felt like I was always driving around in 3rd. No upshifts felt.

I then tightened the rod about 3/8” and now I am getting it to kick down under WOT properly. I have a lot more torque. I am however still having trouble detecting feeling/hearing the 1-2 up shift. I feel it might be happening right away.

I still and need to drive it more with a tachometer to see what RPM the shift points are at.