Step by step guide for idiots ( idiot, me )
The 72 ign switch connector This is up under the dash going into the column. You may need to remove the small trim panel under the column to get enough slack.
Top wire, S2-12Y (no. 12, yellow) is the "start" wire and should be hot with key twisted to start.
Next, Q2-12BK is accessory, should be hot either in "run" or "accessory" position of key
J2B is "ignition run" and is hot ONLY in "run." This is the DarkBLue that feeds out through the bulkhead to the ballast, the VR, and the light blue to the alternator field
J3, IGN2, is BRown and is hot in start just like the start wire, but a separate switch circuit. THAT is what powers the ignition during cranking and feeds out to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor
J1-12R is a no 12, RED and is the main power feeding TO the ignition switch. HOT all the time and NOT fused except for the fuse link. BE CAREFUL
The 72 ign switch connector This is up under the dash going into the column. You may need to remove the small trim panel under the column to get enough slack.
Top wire, S2-12Y (no. 12, yellow) is the "start" wire and should be hot with key twisted to start.
Next, Q2-12BK is accessory, should be hot either in "run" or "accessory" position of key
J2B is "ignition run" and is hot ONLY in "run." This is the DarkBLue that feeds out through the bulkhead to the ballast, the VR, and the light blue to the alternator field
J3, IGN2, is BRown and is hot in start just like the start wire, but a separate switch circuit. THAT is what powers the ignition during cranking and feeds out to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor
J1-12R is a no 12, RED and is the main power feeding TO the ignition switch. HOT all the time and NOT fused except for the fuse link. BE CAREFUL