Duster suspension set up questions

My front rebuild kit came with mump stops but i think they may be stock height, where did you get your shortened bump stops from?
They're from Energy suspension, I run shorter lower bump stops and taller upper bump stops to recenter the suspension travel around the lowered ride height

lowers
Energy Suspension 9.9132G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing

uppers
Energy Suspension 9.9136G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing
Also note that using the holley install kit which brings the engine forward an inch. I have also deleted all the reo from behind my bumper bar to try get weight out of the front. No power steering or ac either.

Should note the car will be used to cruise and hopefully go fast in a straight line, not taking it into the hills to fly through twisty roads i have a Lotus 7 for that lol.
My main issue with the tubular front is i most likely cant use them as they dont pass engineering here.

Side note my acquaintance races a valiant sports sedan 358 hemi mid engine trans axel and actually steered me away from the qa1. As believe it or not had had them fold when racing. Same guy is building my 6.4 for me as a bit of a Mopar guru however i don't bust his balls about my car as our whole frienship group always getting help from him
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Wow! That Valiant is awesome!

I mean, with a set up like that I'm sure he can fold up stock control arms as well with the right conditions. The mopar circuit cars ran suspension stuff that was seriously beefed up over stock. QA1 has added more gusseting to their newer offerings, so I'm not sure how long ago he did that. I had a set of the CAP tubular lowers (before it was bought by QA1) and had a weld fail on those. But CAP went under because of lousy quality control, and QA1 improved both the design and (twice now) and of course the quality improved immediately.

Regardless I know you guys have pretty strict engineering requirements over there so I totally see how that could be an issue for you with those aftermarket LCA's.

Yes its getting shortened as its from a B body so too wide regardless, got it cheap and not a common item in Australia. My diff guy will measure up the car and wheels and hopefully get it bang on haha. But bit of stuffing around as using Ford xr6 turbo 31 spline axles that need to be shortened as well so i can use the modern style brake disks etc.

Ill have a look into the drop spindels i may need to do it after going through the pits as potentially will be an issue ill have to ask the engineer.
Yes as i have seen you built your car to track it? Sorry can you explain bump steer?

Yeah perfect, that makes sense with the B-body rear.

I suppose the drop spindles might be an engineering issue as well. They've been on the market a long time, seems like really splitting hairs but I've heard the engineering criteria for modifications are pretty tough over there. I would think you could get something like that through, but I don't know those requirements or what variances they allow.

Um, another option would be use 73/74 B-body LCA's. They have a completely different profile, but the same length as an A-body spindle. They also have a lower ball joint that's part of the LCA instead of the steering arm, so the steering arm itself is a non-wearing part and the ball joint is a more standard piece. The problem is none of it is reproduced, and I have no idea the availability of 73/74 B-body stuff over there. You basically have to get it all from a donor. The strut rod attachment is also different, so, it would require reworking that which would probably also require engineering on either the LCA or the strut rod, depending on how you did it. Those LCA's have an even lower profile than the QA1 tubular LCA's, they'd add more suspension travel than you could even use without changing the inner fenders (the tires would hit the inner fenders on full compression).


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Yeah I built my Duster for autocross, although so far I just street drive it. The nice thing about autocross is that most of what works for autocross also works very well on the street to have a really well handling car.

Bump steer is the toe change through the range of suspension travel. Because of the geometry of the steering arms relative to the control arms and spindles, as everything travels up and down the arcs mean that the wheels will toe in or out because of the relative differences in the diameters of the arcs of each suspension component. This article is on spindle swaps, but it does a really good job of explaining bump steer

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/#google_vignette