Beginning timing

Actually there is no reason you can't set initial timing somewhat accurately with electronic ignition, and QUITE accurately with breaker points. Static timing with points is how VW bugs used to be specified

Pull the no1 plug, stick in your finger and bump the engine on the starter until you START to feel compression. If you have never done this before, you might have to 'go round' a couple of times. When you start to feel compression, STOP, and either gently bump with the starter, or use a socket on the dampener bolt, bring the engine up NOT to TDC but rather where it is that you want timing.

Now toss the dist in there with the rotor heading towards the no1 and rotate the dist so it's roughly aligned with the no1 tower. On a B/RB the dist. advances CW, so RETARD it a ways CCW. Now, (if points) slowly bring the dist back CW until the points just break, using a light, etc.

If you have breakerless, bring the dist back CW until the pickup core is aligned with the tip of the reluctor, and the rotor should be approaching "about" corner to corner or more centered with the plug tower

IF YOU ARE breaking in a cam you don't want to crank on it needlessly, so if you are NOT breaking in a new cam, you can now either try for a start, or even hook up a timing light and time it on the starter

I first learned this in about 1971. Once you learn to do this, it is as quick as any other method. On the 8 BTC, most engines with any kind of performance cam will want AT LEAST that much and more initial timing.

The other issue is, IF you are breaking in a new cam you do NOT want to be fighting various engine problems, and you also do NOT be be running the engine with retarded timing when trying to deal with cam break in. A clue is overly hot headers/ exhaust.