Fine Tuning a 360 Magnum with a Brawler "Double Pumper"

jmanhoff said
Currently in the process of tapping and moving the IFRs. I need to go get a drill for the emulsion blanks so I figured I’d ask this question while I was not working.

Do the IFRs need to be flush with the port they’re going into or can the head of the screw stick up slightly? In this case, it’s not sticking up higher than the gasket and it does allow the block to sit flush in the main body.

I still need to remove the old IFRs, go figure my mini flathead doesn’t have a thick enough head so I need to buy one of those too lol.View attachment 1716366561
View attachment 1716366562

I apologize for not being clear. That’s my fault.

First of all, if it’s my carb for me personally I almost never use those flanged jets like that.

They are horribly expensive for one thing, and in certain places like you are showing they sit proud.

I buy brass set screws 150 at a time. I haven’t needed any for awhile but I think that’s about 30 dollars worth. Obviously you don’t need that many but you can buy 50 and they are cheaper than those.

I use them for any internal jet or bleed because they can’t be seen. Externally I still use brass set screws to get the tune up finalized, then I drill the flanged brass and install them. That’s for the main and idle bleeds because people can see them.

If some guy is walking by and can’t see the brass in the main air bleed because I used a set screws it can make them…let’s say nervous.

So I apologize for not being clear on that.

They need to be flush at the highest. They can’t be proud.

You absolutely can’t use flanged brass for T slot restricters because the carb isn’t that thick there and they have to be flush or countersunk a bit.

I get my brass from McMaster-Carr. It’s way cheaper that way.

Edit; it looks like you idle feed restricters are at least partially blocking off the other hole next to it. That can’t happen either.