Fine Tuning a 360 Magnum with a Brawler "Double Pumper"

jmanhoff said
Alright, back from break and back to work and back with potentially stupid questions.

After driving around for awhile, I’m still having a dieseling issue, and if I close the idle screw more the vacuum drops quite a bit and the idle screws need to be almost completely in for it to be happy. Is there a spot the screws are “supposed” to be in relation to your IFR and IAB sizes?

When I close the idle screw a bit to get the dieseling to stop it seems like there’s a slight dead spot on slight throttle coming out from a stop, almost like it’s not getting enough fuel it seems like (engine sounds like it cuts), but the idle smells pig rich.

I want to pull a couple plugs to show pictures, but was curious, what should I do driving wise prior to pulling them? Or does it not really matter

To avoid any scrolling:
IFR: .028
IAB: .070
TSR: .070
Idle mixture: 3/4 turn out

MAB: .028
Timing: 13° @ 750rpm
PMJ: #66

Middle emulsion ports blocked, top and bottom not touched

Don’t touch the carb. Take it off (yes you can touch it while taking it off…I should have said that first and typed less) flip it over and look at how much T slot exposure you have.

If over 50% of the slot is open, you need to drill some SMALL holes in each butterfly.

This takes time and patience because you need to sneak up on it. If you make them too big the engine will idle high with the butterflies shut.

Drill the holes in line with the curb idle discharge port. Stay about 3/16 away from the edge of the butterfly so you can start small and sneak up on it. If you start out too close to the edge and you need to go bigger on the hole you can’t because you’ll blow through the edge of the butterfly.

SNEAK UP ON IT.

If the butterflies are showing less than 50% of the T slot you have too hot of a plug, engine coolant too hot, not enough octane for the fuel you are using or some or all of them.

I forget if you know the compression ratio or not.