Wrong axle length, green bearing fix?

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Sportfury70

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I have a 1970 Satellite I just swapped a 8-3/4 into (original 8-1/4). You guys have been a great help with figuring out my magnum swap, so figured I’d ask here.

I pieced the rear together and up until today it had turned out great. Correct housing, 11” brakes, 741 with 3.55 sure grip, etc. I got the axle shafts and brakes from a guy who said they were from a 70 RR, and stated they were the correct 29-3/16 length. They have the tapered bearings.

Attempting to set the end play has been super frustrating, so I pulled the shaft and found it measured out to just a hair under 29” tip to outside flange. NOT what it’s supposed to be. I believe they probably came out of a 65-67 b body.

Does anyone know, since green bearings eliminate the adjuster, can I use these slightly short shafts with those without having to source new shafts?

I can’t see a reason why not since you’re supposed to eliminate the center spacer with the green bearings anyway, but I’d like some opinions to make sure.
 
You have to be careful here. If the sure grip has split side gears, you may not get sufficient engagement with the inner side gears.


If they are just shy of 29", most like 65-67 B body axles. 68-70 are 29 3/16"
 
8 1/4 inch rear ends didn't appear until 1973, right?

I have a couple of A-body 8 3/4 axles that are milled short and had green bearings. I believe that this was done so that they didn't have to pull out the differential to remove the block in the center for adjustment.
 
8 1/4 inch rear ends didn't appear until 1973, right?

I have a couple of A-body 8 3/4 axles that are milled short and had green bearings. I believe that this was done so that they didn't have to pull out the differential to remove the block in the center for adjustment.

In A-bodies the 8.25's came about in '73, with the BBP because there are no SBP 8.25's. But they were earlier in the other bodies. I don't know about '70, but my '71 Satellite has an original 8.25.

You have to be careful here. If the sure grip has split side gears, you may not get sufficient engagement with the inner side gears.

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If they are just shy of 29", most like 65-67 B body axles. 68-70 are 29 3/16"

This.

65-67 is supposed to be 28 7/8". I'd get the right axles.
 
8 1/4 inch rear ends didn't appear until 1973, right?

The Chrysler 8-1/4" rear axle was introduced during the 1969 model production run B-bodies and C-bodies with 318 engines. The 8-1/4" rear axle is a Salisbury type assembly and differs from the banjo type 8-1/4" rear axle used in 1957 to 1962.

Due to the late introduction in the 1969 production run, the 8-1/4" rear axle is not included in the 1969 service manuals. Some information is in the 1969 Service Highlights and the 1970 service manual is suitable for service operations on the axle.

The axle continued in production and expanded in use over the model lines. Additional gear ratios and Sure-Grip was later added to the axle offerings. It was available after 1969 in the following applications depending on other equipment and duty ratings:
- 1970-1979 B-bodies
- 1970-1978 C-bodies
- 1973-1976 A-bodies
- 1976-1980 F-bodies
- 1980-1983 J-bodies
- 1978-1988 M-bodies
- 1979-1981 R-bodies (8-1/4" axle standard)
- 1971-later B-series vans
- 1972-2000s D/W-100 and D/W-150 series trucks (it was more broadly available after 1974 when the larger 9-1/4" axle was introduced to replace the 8-3/4" axle)
- 1975-1993 AD/AW series sport utility vehicles (Ramcharger, US models)
- 1975-1980 PD/PW series sport utility vehicles (Trailduster)

From 1969 Service Highlights:
PXL_20250115_004936891.jpg


FYI...
 
So someone sold you a 8 3/4 Housing, brakes, and axles. But the axles were wrong?
 
I would beware of tearing the splines out of the carrier if not long enough if doing holeshots with sticky tires.
 
Honestly, I’m $600 into this rear and that includes a new sure grip. The entire install was plug and play and I had it done in a few hours of leisure wrenching, so not bad. Didn’t even have to shorten the driveshaft.

The axle length bit me in the a$$ though.

Uh, the driveshaft length between an 8.25 and an 8 3/4 should be different by about 5/8". So either it was too short when it was with the 8.25" or it's too long now.

Remember that the transmission yoke should be pulled out about 1" from where it bottoms out in the transmission when the driveshaft is the proper length. That would mean that a proper length driveshaft for an 8.25" would physically fit in the car with an 8 3/4 rear, but the yoke would be too deep to have the proper amount of travel.
 
Honestly, I’m $600 into this rear and that includes a new sure grip. The entire install was plug and play and I had it done in a few hours of leisure wrenching, so not bad. Didn’t even have to shorten the driveshaft.

The axle length bit me in the a$$ though.

You are in good area on the price of things. Someone sold you something that was misidentified. It happens. Toss those axles back up for sale to recoup some of your $'s

I may have some 68-70 B body axles as well somewhere around here, but shipping them is stupid expensive now.
 
Ive got a few sets of 8 3/4 axles down at the garage. Ill measure what I have and get back to you. Do me a favor and send me a PM, this way I wont forget.
Ive got a few sets of 8 3/4 axles down at the garage. Ill measure what I have and get back to you. Do me a favor and send me a PM, this way I wont forget.
I'm looking for some BBP A body axels. Thank you
 
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