6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

'Cuda_ragtop said
Thanks again Michael! My upper ball joints do not have the Bump.

Back to looking at these American Racing wheels again...
When ordering from Wheels for Less Reseller, they offer the "VN501" off the shelf Mono-cast 1 Piece with zero offset $, Budget friendlier...
They also sell the "AR500" a Custom 2 Piece with choice of Color, Bolt Pattern and Custom offset $$$$
Same style wheels low cost one piece cast and more expensive custom two piece...

View attachment 1716379047
Standard finish is Black/Machined I would order them all Matte Black as in the picture above.
View attachment 1716379048

The 73 C-Body, New Yorker 11.75" rotor is 1.245" thick but the rotor overall height is .27" shorter than the standard 1" thick rotors. That is they give a narrower track by .27" per side.
So with my 73 C-Body (New Yorker Rotors), I should be able to run a 5.25" Backspace... or 5.5" BS and add spacers to move outward as needed to clear the OTR.
Much easier adjust outward by adding spacers to move the wheel out if needed.

73 New Yorker Rotor specs, thicker rotor but moves the wheel mounting surface inward by .27"
View attachment 1716379042

Cordoba Rotor specs
View attachment 1716379044

- Randy

9’s up front realistically means 18’s or extensive fender work.

17x9 +0 won’t cut it. A 9” wheel up front realistically needs almost 6” of backspace to clear the fender (on a 73+ set up), a +0 is only 5” so even if you’ve got an extra 1/4” vs a standard 73+ set up that’s still no where near enough.

The problem is this- you still have the same clearance issue to the outer tie rod. Typically that’s an issue at around 5.6” of backspace with a 17”, for you that means it’s gonna be an issue at around 5.35”. So yeah, the 17x9 +0 for you is like an effective 5.25” of backspace compared to a 73+ brake set up, but you’d still realistically need close 5.75” to make the wheel actually fit in the fender, but that won’t clear the tie rod.

Like @mosleyme said, you have 17x8 +0’s on there now, your best bet is to measure the distance you’ve got from the outer tie rod end to your current wheel and take most of that distance and add it to the backspace of your current wheel to figure what you want on the next set.

And think about it this way, 17x9 +0’s will stick out an extra 1/2” compared to your current 17x8 +0’s. Centerline is the same, wheel lip moves out a 1/2” on both sides.