Subject - Stick shift bracket racing

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skep419

skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
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Hoping to do more racing this year, I usually hit up the test and tune and head home before the actual racing starts. The day is spent trying different things to improve ET and having fun ripping down the track.
Installed a 2 step and I think I should be able to be somewhat consistent. Anybody on here bracket race a stick shift car?
 
Yes but I consider Lenco an automatic. Except for launch, its just yank the levers when the shift light hits 7200.

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Raced my 340 4 speed Duster for years, Made a couple of test runs before the actual race and just dialed it in. Usually no more then.02 difference from week to week, just depended on the weather.
 
I've bracket raced my 6spd - it was a challenge to get a good launch and then hit the shift points and make good shifts for multipe gears all in the same run. Not impossible, but it does make for more things to go wrong.
I have been able to make it happen, but for bracket racing I would reccomend an auto for the consistancy. Bracket racing is all about consistancy.
 
There's a guy on the B side with a 3rd gen charger that has won several times in his stick-only class.
I'll find his handle and get back......

Edit: padam is his handle . Paul Adam I believe. I think he runs regular brackets too.
 
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They don't have a stick shift class or any index classes. It looks like Pro ET would be the only class I can run in. Averaged 8.60's last year (8.30's with the auto) Hoping to close the gap this year with the 2step, 3.91 gears, and slicks.
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If you want to use an 833 style trans. Get the 4 spd face plated and find a "Mr. Gasket V-gate shifter" You'll only need the clutch to launch. Then just rip the shifter . Lenco is the way to go, but a more expensive route.
 
It's 95% street car so I don't plan on switching to a face plated/crash box or a gated shifter. More or less looking for little tips or tricks/hero stories.
 
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Oldmanmopar said:
If you want to use an 833 style trans. Get the 4 spd face plated and find a "Mr. Gasket V-gate shifter" You'll only need the clutch to launch. Then just rip the shifter . Lenco is the way to go, but a more expensive route.
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Mr.Gasket version better than Hurst RamRod? Looks sturdier, shifts better, easier? the shifter I mean, not the box
 
abdywgn said:
Mr.Gasket version better than Hurst RamRod? Looks sturdier, shifts better, easier? the shifter I mean, not the box
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The Ram Rod is 100 times the shifter any vertigate is.

All vertigate shifters are inline shifters, but not all inline shifters are vertigate.
 
skep419 said:
It's 95% street car so I don't plan on switching to a face plated/crash box or a gated shifter. More or less looking for little tips or tricks/hero stories.
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First off, no one asked the ONLY question that matters. I’m serious.

That question is what clutch?

You tell me that I can help you.
 
skep419 said:

CENTERFORCE DUAL FRICTION (old picture)​

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First off you need to get a clutch tamer.

@ weedburner is a member here. If not google clutch tamer.

If you are running street tires you can skip that. It should make enough power to knock the tires loose on the gear change.

If you have slicks or drag radials you need a CT.

If you are going to power shift the gearbox with your throttle foot on the floor above about 6500 you may need to slick shift the transmission.

If and when you do, slick shift ONLY second, third and fourth gears, and the full 3-4 slider.

Slick shift the 1-2 slider only on the second gear side, so remove every other tooth ONLY on the second gear side. Leave first gear alone and the first gear side of the slider.

Put the box back together just like it was stock.

If you are shifting below 6500 and you are ok granny shifting the forget the slick shift.
 
skep419 said:
Hoping to do more racing this year, I usually hit up the test and tune and head home before the actual racing starts. The day is spent trying different things to improve ET and having fun ripping down the track.
Installed a 2 step and I think I should be able to be somewhat consistent. Anybody on here bracket race a stick shift car?
Click to expand...

I did quite some time ago now in my '65 Cuda. I raced using a Hurst Super Shifter III with reverse lockout. I had over and over again hit the reverse detent with the factory Hurst shifter causing me to miss 2nd gear.

I struggled with launch consistency until I bought a McLeod Soft Lok clutch. Best thing I ever did. I was running an 18 spline Liberty lugged A-833. I still used the clutch on shifts whether I should have or not.

I never won a bracket race as much as I tried. My best was 10.80 at 127mph. At that mph I probably should have been lower 10s.
 
I bracket race my 72 Colt with a 4 speed. Drag car only.
I run a 4 speed because I want to have fun.
Ram Rod, clutch tamer and a 2 step.
Still dialing it in, but enjoying the ride.
4 Speed Magic.jpg
 
Softlocker for me . But this recertification every 2 years sucks. Freight and then the semi annual tune up are getting pricey!

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66Valiant528 said:
Softlocker for me . But this recertification every 2 years sucks. Freight and then the semi annual tune up are getting pricey!

View attachment 1716380940
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I try to get anyone running a stick who is going to make serious power and use bite to run that clutch.

If they can’t spend the money then a clutch tamer.

One or the other but never neither.
 
In the 90's I rigged up a hydraulic clutch and a adjustable McCloud clutch with a face plated A833. We used a delay box with a line lock plumbed into the hydraulic line for the clutch. It was very fun and almost as consistent as a auto trans.
 
been runing a stick car forever, won many races, is more consistent, used a hurst super shifter 3 , mcloed B&B /long clutch with a series 300 disc, base pressure was 1400 to 1600 lbs , also could add c/w to fingers. now i run a softloc, clutch, my trans was slick shifted , now its a jerico, best trans just food for thought.
 
just a thought, use a long style clutch, with a composite disc, about 1600 # base, they have c/w fingers, ram and mcloed have those, have to drill flywheel though, also, i always used a aluminum flywheel, can launch at higher rpm, the long is an excellent clutch setup,
 
just looked at mcloeds site, they offer B&B/long clutch, and the long clutch. long has c/w finger and is1650 base, B&B/long is 1800 # base. use a regular disc, we referred to those as a rag disc,
 
perfacar said:
just looked at mcloeds site, they offer B&B/long clutch, and the long clutch. long has c/w finger and is1650 base, B&B/long is 1800 # base. use a regular disc, we referred to those as a rag disc,
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Is that the 10.95 inch cover??? If so thats GREAT news because they stopped making them a long time ago.
 
I assume they do, friend ofmine had one built while back, the long clutch is a better style the finger ratio is better ,
 
skep419 said:
It's 95% street car so I don't plan on switching to a face plated/crash box or a gated shifter. More or less looking for little tips or tricks/hero stories.
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The super shifter push down for reverse, It would look like a factory shifter but the reverse gate is blocked unless you push down.

Most of the time you miss second gear due to pulling the shifter into the side gate for reverse. This almost always happens when you have one of those hand grip T-handles at an angle.

Boy when I think back and try and remember all the brass forks I broke. The steel forks in 71 were god sent.
 
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