You’re shitting me right. You are this obtuse.
I’ll say it again. If you are bolting the junk you build together and the pushrods are bending turning the crank BY HAND you should find another line of work.
I’ve said it multiple times as nice as I can.
ON THE STAND THE PUSHRODS MIGHT DEFLECT WHILE TURNING THE CRANK BY HAND BUT WHEN YOU STOP TURNING THE CRANK THE PUSHROD DOES NOT STAY BENT.
If it does stay bent what does that tell you? It’s permanently bent.
I know you want to be right but you are so ******* wrong it’s senseless.
I told you to call Jesel but you didn’t and you used the lame assed excuse they would be busy. It’s their JOB to answer questions and educate the customers.
You didn’t call because you didn’t want to be wrong. That’s chickenshit.
You don’t have to call and say “there is an argument on the web and a fat old guys says the rockers flex” or something like that.
You’d call and ask a question like “I’m working on my junk and I’m checking P/V with checking springs and the ratio is higher than nominal. Why is that”?
I guarantee you that he won’t say “your pushrods are bending so don’t worry about it”.
He will tell you EXACTLY what I’m saying. How do I know.
BECAUSE I ASKED THE VERY QUESTION MYSELF.
Just to make you look even more foolish, my last engine for the race car had 350ish on the seat and over 900 over the nose.
I had to use 3/8 x 7/16 .120 wall double tapered pushrods to make it live.
With checking springs my Norris rockers had the ratio way over 1.6, but loaded they were 1.61.
Do you actually believe that turning that engine over by hand with the springs I ran that those pushrods were bending and staying bent?
Think about it before you answer because any answer other than no is wrong.