Going back to Chrysler ignition

LOL, I have no problem using factory pistons, rods, heads, camshaft, valve springs, Carbs, or intake manifolds. I'm still running the same Mopar conversion setup with a Chrome box for the last 40+ years with no problems. Engine flys up to 7,000 rpm and starts in less than a full turn. Sorry, I used to work on Chevies. You can run an HEI module, not for me.

All I’m gonna say is if you ever need to buy a new Mopar ignition box, best of luck. Their quality has definitely gone downhill, I wouldn’t buy an MP branded box at all anymore.

factory




Factory distributor, and everything under tin and aluminum covers.. never had any of of any issues

As far as i can conclude, this engine swapped in that i've been putting brutal hours on, and hours before me was used @ 100k miles back in 1980's, late 1960's cast#, and no issues yet. The current swap doesn't use miles, it uses hours. and that was broken before the swap. So i cannot speak for that.

It's been sitting a few years. New wires, plugs, condenser, cap/rotor, and some sandpaper.

I need to plumb a radiator and transmission cooler before i whip it over.

I'm excited to see what I have!!

Sounds like a bone stock, low horsepower engine.

Which is fine, but you have to understand that the factory ignition, and even more so the mechanical parts in the factory distributor have limits when it comes to tuning the ignition curve to an engine that is not bone stock.

I ran a factory electronic distributor in my 340 for awhile, it runs a bigger cam, ported heads, etc, etc. I had to weld the mechanical advance slots and file them to set the advance at idle where I needed it and limit the total mechanical advance to what my engine needed. If your engine idles at 10° advance because it’s bone stock that’s great, if it idles at 20° advance the stock distributor has to be modified. And aftermarket distributors don’t require that, they’re made to be tuned.

My engine works better with the Pertronix distributor and ignition than it did with the factory system, and the Pertronix is MUCH easier to tune. But hey, if you never need to tune the advance curve then the factory system is fine. Lotsa different engine builds here, and the factory system is not right for all of them.